Regner Lumber Jack

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Chris Cairns
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Regner Lumber Jack

Post by Chris Cairns » Sun Jun 01, 2014 5:40 pm

Having built up a mainly oscillating fleet of 32mm locomotives I was eager to add a piston or slide valve dual gauge locomotive to my fleet to make visiting other Garden Railways/Layouts more practical. So that was No.1 on my shopping list for the National Garden Railway Show in 2013 but I came away empty handed in that respect.

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The steam oil residue has proved to be a very effective paint stripper giving an authentic overheated look to the smoke box door and sides

Some time later several locomotives appeared on eBay as part of a bereavement clearout and I placed a few bids. I was successful with 2 of my bids, one of which won a near complete & assembled Regner Lumber Jack kit. I was able to correspond with the seller which enabled many of the missing parts to be located before it was shipped to me.

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It was missing the instructions (downloadable from Regner’s website), a Regner gas filler adapter (one of my Ronson lighter canister adapters fitted), no Lumber Jack nameplates (I think these are just sticky labels), and the front step (replaced by a piece of wood from my spares which just needs staining). Extra bits included a Ronson type filler valve (now fitted), water filler valve fitted, long Roundhouse type EN417 gas filler adapter, and some not related R/C fittings.

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Initially I had problems lighting the gas burner as the burning gas would not pop back to the burner but remained lit in the smoke box. This can lead to a terminal failure of the cylinder retaining springs on the Lumber Jack. Part of the problem is the exhaust chuff pipe directs the expelled steam oil condensate down onto the power unit and around the inside of the smoke box/front of boiler, plus on mine the needle on the lubricator is ineffective (it is either too short or not enough threaded section has been cut). So I deep cleaned off all this steam oil residue which partly helped, then I started experiencing block jets.

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Shows Regner's wheel back to back gauge

Took me awhile to find a supermarket that actually sold loose coffee filter paper (a Tag Gorton recommendation), and I found by sealing the jet into the holder, the holder into the burner, and the burner into the boiler flue tube (thus eliminating all the additional secondary air) I finally had a burner that would pop back properly most times.

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With the power unit removed we can see the intermediate & final drive shaft/axle

Fitting the replacement Ronson type filler valve introduced another problem as it allows more gas into the tank (the Regner filler valve occupies a larger volume) so the gas outlasts the water and you can get more problems with liquid gas initially.

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The power unit disassembled for degreasing

At some point during my running indoors at home one of the coupling pins worked loose in the power unit but was easily fixed. Last year I had taken this Lumber Jack to run on our railway group’s indoor 45mm layout, but despite being offered poll position on the running roster the loco was failed during light up due to a blocked jet (this was before I’d found the coffee filter paper).

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The realigned & meshed power unit now back in place

So this year’s May Bank Holiday Monday saw me return for a second attempt. After setting it off I positioned myself outside the layout (the track is not fully accessible from the operator’s position for manual locomotives like this one) and had to make a slight adjustment to the regulator as the layout still has one tight curve (the rest have been successfully eased out). It was all going well whilst I was explaining about the loco to some visitors when it ground to a halt with a bang at the back of the layout. It had not hit anything and refused to move in either direction. Picking it up (with high temperature gloves fitted) revealed the power unit had seized, although nothing was readily obvious. So I cleared the running line, left the loco covered over to cool down and returned to my full size footplate duties.

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The boiler, etc. removed to allow full access to the power unit

At home I got it out of my toolbox to find it freely moved again. As it still had gas & water I decided to fire it up on blocks and it started running again. It did stop once but freed off again with gloved hands and I ran it at some quite high speeds to finish the gas off. I had previously gone around all the axles and drive shafts adjusting collars, gear meshing, etc. to ensure correct free play & smooth running. However the power unit was fixed in its bracket and a check with my callipers revealed it was slightly misaligned fore & aft.

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I've not allocated a crew to this loco yet so just trying out a Busybodies Fred Dibnah, one of Jon's drivers, and a Modeltown driver (think this was the now deleted Punch driver)

So I decided to remove the boiler, etc. to give clear access to the power unit which was removed for cleaning. The mounting bracket was stuck firmly to the power unit (the paint had melted due to the heat) so it was prised off, paint residue removed from power unit, then refitted loosely to the chassis. Have aligned the power unit correctly fore & aft I used a piece of paper for proper meshing between the gears and the bolts were then all tightened up. Boiler, etc. fitted back onto chassis, gas tank filled, lubricator quantity checked (I do not fill it full now, just sufficient for a run), boiler filled up and burner light. Loco ran fine on blocks (my test loop needs degreasing and new ballast [kitchen towel laid] as my axles are getting clogged with hairs, etc.) so hopefully it is now ready for another visit to our 45mm indoor layout.

Decided to check the wheel back to back gauge that Regner supply. Whilst the 45mm back to back is 40mm, the 32mm back to back is only 27mm. However I’ve not noticed any problems with that setting running round my Mamod track (no points fitted as they caused too many problems whilst locos were running in).

Chris Cairns

laalratty

Post by laalratty » Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:45 pm

Sounds like you've had a few challenges with this loco. I know of someone who bought a Chaloner off Regner a few years ago, and had to practically strip it down and rebuild it before it ran reliably. But recent ones I've seen have been ok.

kandnwlr

Post by kandnwlr » Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:15 pm

Sounds as though you haven´t had one common problem, which is getting the engine to stay lit at all ....

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Chris Cairns
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Post by Chris Cairns » Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:21 pm

laalratty wrote:Sounds like you've had a few challenges with this loco.
The disadvantage of buying 2nd hand off eBay. The seller had listed a good selection of photos and knew something was missing. This was the roof which he had found by the end of the auction and I was able to describe the roof posts & other bits like the tools that were not present via e-mail advising him to delay the shipping, which allowed most of the bits & tools to be located.

As you will be aware getting spare parts for Regner's here in the UK is not just a simple phone call or e-mail (even if you speak & write German), so fortunately the problems have been fixed so far without the need for any spare parts. I did try to talk with Martin (Martin's Models Garden Railways) at the recent Peterborough show about getting Regner spares, but he was always engaged with another customer when I visited his stand. I know from another member of our railway group, who also has a Lumber Jack, that it takes a long time for the spares to filter through.
kandnwlr wrote:Sounds as though you haven´t had one common problem, which is getting the engine to stay lit at all ....
There does seem to be a recurring theme with Regner's and burner woes, but there also does not seem to be one definitive answer. I tried blocking off one air hole during light up (did not help), and removed the smoke box door (would be nice if it was hinged like an Accucraft) to see what was going on. Talked with another Regner owner last year and he sent his burner & gas filler valve to Mike Ousby (ACME Engineering) for modification. For the burner Mike drilled an extra hole in the part that slides into the boiler flue tube to allow extra secondary air around the burner, which is the exact opposite to my solution. Only criticism I have now is the gas regulator valve is not fine threaded enough to allow better control for indoor running. I try not to fully fill up the gas tank (but as you use up your gas cannister the pressure for transfer changes so difficult to judge correctly) and use cold water (normally use boiled water from a kettle) so that the boiler will not run dry. The filler valve works with a larger diameter tube than my syringes, and I'm on my 3rd pump bottle which has sprung a leak (pumps failed on the last 2).

Chris Cairns

mikewakefielduk@btinterne

Post by mikewakefielduk@btinterne » Sat Jun 07, 2014 6:38 pm

Since I fashioned some hinges and made my LumberJack smoke box door openable I haven't had any issues in getting it to light. Have also fitted radio control to the regulator and toyed with fitting the same to the reverser. Got as far as buying the kit (from a Regner dealer in France) and fitting the wooden box at the front but it remains empty.

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I also altered the pipe from the lubricator. The original had arrived blocked with silver solder so it took me a couple of goes to fashion a new one to loop around the boiler without getting too close to the sight glass.

Also swapped the pressure gauge to the other side of the boiler so I could fit a steam whistle that had come from a second-hand Vincent. Can't get it to make a noise though, just blows steam.

Mike

kandnwlr

Post by kandnwlr » Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:10 am

Good idea with the smoke box door and lighting. Shame the same principle can´t be used with virtically boilered locos .... :( :x

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Chris Cairns
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Post by Chris Cairns » Sun Jun 08, 2014 4:36 pm

We discussed the advantage of an opening smoke box door and it is nice to see Mike has done a good job converting his.

Not felt I have a requirement to fit Radio Control so far as the gearing seems to cope well with variations in the track, although I've not run mine on any significant gradients so far.

I also have a Regner steam whistle to fit (probably under the cab floor) and I've read elsewhere that they do need a high steam pressure to work properly - seem to recall approx 40 PSI.

Chris Cairns

mikewakefielduk@btinterne

Post by mikewakefielduk@btinterne » Sun Jun 08, 2014 4:59 pm

40 psi would explain it as I've been running the loco at around 25psi.

Mike

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Chris Cairns
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Post by Chris Cairns » Sat Jun 14, 2014 8:47 pm


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