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Supplier of 0-6-0 motor block
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2025 9:03 pm
by GAP
I am looking for some recommendations for suppliers and manufacturers of an 0-6-0 motor block for use with a tank engine I am building (Thomas type)
I am in Australia so a supplier in Aust would be good but I am open to buying from overseas.
Experience with manufacturers product welcome.
Re: Supplier of 0-6-0 motor block
Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2025 6:04 am
by ge_rik
GAP wrote: ↑Wed Oct 29, 2025 9:03 pm
I am looking for some recommendations for suppliers and manufacturers of an 0-6-0 motor block for use with a tank engine I am building (Thomas type)
I am in Australia so a supplier in Aust would be good but I am open to buying from overseas.
Experience with manufacturers product welcome.
Hi Graeme
I managed to find a Piko 0-6-0 motor block for my Manning Wardle 0-6-0ST build. I've been very pleased with how it performs. One of my favourite locos
https://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2014/0 ... 0.html?m=1
Rik
Re: Supplier of 0-6-0 motor block
Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2025 8:48 am
by GTB
GAP wrote: ↑Wed Oct 29, 2025 9:03 pm
I am in Australia so a supplier in Aust would be good but I am open to buying from overseas.
Pamak Hobbies in Bargo south of Sydney sell Piko G scale models and parts.They do mail order and have a website, but don't have an online shop.
Trains for the Garden in Melbourne also sells Piko models and they have a website, but no online shop.
Note the Piko 0-6-0 chassis block doesn't appear to come with crankpins and coupling rods. Presumably they are available separately.
I've no direct experience with Piko ,or these suppliers, but their chassis seem popular.
Graeme
Re: Supplier of 0-6-0 motor block
Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2025 7:58 pm
by ge_rik
GTB wrote: ↑Fri Oct 31, 2025 8:48 am
,....... Note the Piko 0-6-0 chassis block doesn't appear to come with crankpins and coupling rods. Presumably they are available separately.
Graeme
k
I did buy the Piko crankpins and coupling rods but in the end, didn't use them. They were too chunky and plasticky looking. I passed some 2mm (I think) screws through from behind and fashioned my own rods from brass, using nylock nuts to hold everything in place. Although the nylocks aren't particularly realistic, the are better than the Piko plastic ones IMHO
Rik