Garden Railway Forum

I hope this works. It is the link to the video I watched.

Phil

Thanks Phil, bit difficult to understand some details but I have the book for reference too.
Grant.

Grant,

I agree that it is not easy to follow, I found his accent needed a lot of concentration and he goes rather fast. Several viewings before attempting to do anything with the settings, also going through the menus to get familiar with what is where.

I have only opened the instruction book once, when I first got the locomotive, and was completely baffled by something that was not intended for trains. All I wanted to know at that stage was how to control the three servos fitted to Anna.

Good luck!

Phil

Phil,
Luckily at the Model Boat Club there are members (younger than me ) who understand all this digital stuff and I can seek help from. My need to use the other knobs and switches is not pressing at this time, the next move would be to buy another receiver so I can run another boat from this transmitter.
Thanks Grant.

Roger and Jackie from the South West Wales 16mm group came over to play yesterday afternoon. They took this rather splendid piece of video which shows Anna starting off with the drain cocks open (simulated):-




They also took some great pictures:-
Roger had his first experience of driving live steam, I think he enjoyed it!

Phil

Learning to drive live steam

I expect it's obvious to everyone with more experience, and indeed when thinking about travelling on preserved steam railways, that if the loco won't move when the regulator is opened the problem is easily solved by trying to go in the reverse direction for a very short distance to move the position of the pistons.

Phil

As I've just built a simulated drain device for the Fowler I've just finished, I envy you guy's with your colder climate. You actually get to see the steam. I'm out in the cold down here running mine because come summer the loco probably won't look like it has the drains open at all. Ho! Hum!
Grant.

Just think what it will be like on a winter day!

Then there were three:-
Phil

I really love IoM coaches. In the (very) early days of my NG modelling I bought Don Boreham's excellent book on NG Railway modelling which included drawings and detailed construction guides on IoM coaches. I never did get around to constructing any but one day .........

Rik

ge_rik wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 4:23 pm I really love IoM coaches

I do too Rik, specially in the brown and cream livery. And of course they have full length steps and tumblehome which just adds to their style.
Grant.

gilfachphil wrote: ↑Fri Sep 20, 2024 7:54 am Then there were three:-

IMG_4533.jpeg

Phil

They do look good, although I've always like the examples used on Hambleden Valley with black ends and weathering. Also I recognise that Skylark, we met yesterday at the Bala show

Morning Tommy,

glad to see you were at the Bala show. I had a great day out at the invitation of the 16mm Modular Group, ran some of my trains during the day but not the IOM coaches as I have yet to source a suitable size box for the three of them to fit in, and enjoyed the rest of the show too.

Interesting to read the appreciation of the full length steps on The IOM coaches as they foul the platform surface on my scenic station board. Grr. Modification has been started. If only I knew as much when I started 16mm modelling as (I think) I do now!


Having found the IOM coaches fouled the platform surface I tried the WLLR ones. They just scraped along the edge of the platform very slightly in places. So it's lower and back a bit.

Phil

gilfachphil wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2024 10:10 am They just scraped along the edge of the platform very slightly in places

I imagine Phil that being up off the ground, once you have clearances sorted they will stay that way. I have found it prudent to run the petrol mechanical loco around first to check clearances past the platforms as occasionally a post on the facia will move. Just one of the many "joys" of
garden railways.
Grant.

Thanks Grant,

this problem was caused by new stock!

Now how on earth did I construct this platform a couple of years ago? A close inspection leads to my thinking I glued the top onto insulation board so a Japanese saw blade introduced to a gap and waggled about and the top starts to be liftable.

Once removed it looked a fairly simple problem to solve if I just worried about the platform needing to be narrower, height adjustment being much more messy to achieve. Cutting into the insulation about 10mm back from the front edge and use of prodders and Henry lead to a gap. I could then tap against the front stonework to release it from the ballast PVA which was holding it firmly in place.

So we get to this,


and with the surface plonked back to check, this:-
That'll do!

Phil

Bakewell, when did she last appear??

I'm finding when I go back to doing a bit more the 3D print lines need a lot of work. I'm gradually getting there. The cab side plates are particularly awkward and I have now smoothed some Perfect Plastic Putty into the surface and need to do some more rubbing down. I'm hoping that doing them matt black will cover some sins.

I have done some matt black on the chassis, smokebox and chimney assembly from underneath so the cover is far from complete, to get some idea of whether it will do. I've also put a first coat of maroon on the tank and tender. The maroon will be coated in matt varnish.

A couple of pictures to show where I am with it.


Phil

Some more paint and fixing together of the chassis before more black paint. The cab front has been glued to the tank. That assembly is a tight friction fit onto the chassis which is good. In the pictures can be seen two small machine screws holding what are now three layers of cab floor together. The top layer is very fragile, you have to countersink the screwholes for fixing the cab sides from underneath and it cracked when first attaching cab sides. I got a spare from Bootlane and have now bonded that underneath the top layer for strength. This has the effect of raising the firebox by around 1mm so I made the cut out in the rear end of the tank a little taller so it will still sit flat. The cab sides were rubbed down once the PPP was dry and given a coat of black. I think they'll do

Phil

That finish is looking really good.

Thanks Philip,

it's looking better after the latest coat of paint. I will be making the maroon matt with varnish as it's a gloss spray which is too revealing!

Phil

Looking really good, Phil. Can't wait to see it finished and in action.

Rim