Ruby Improvements/Tips

[IrishPeter]

I think they start out "real" then get translated into metric as there are some interesting things going on on their componant lists.  I like Accy locomotives as they are relatively simple and fit in with my "ploughed field maintenance facility" - basically a tool box and an old bench sheltered by a tarp in the backyard.  

According to the instruction book - which I finally found in a pile of Pipe music - I need either a 0.9mm or a 0.035."  Ye gods, that is a little Allen key.  The next one I get is going to acquire a wooden handle or be soldered to a hunk of brass so I do not loose it on the dirt floor in the - ahem - "workshop!"

I tend to favour Imperial measurements as my education in things mechanical was courtesy of Dad and Grandad for whom metric was/is a work of the devil.  I also like a proper Imperial pint at the end of the day! If I am really lucky and back home in the UK it is a pint of (Tetley's) Imperial.

Peter in AZ

[Jerm]

All right, here's another question. Any tips on how to get a good grip for adjusting the valves? I can unscrew the lock nut, no problem, but the pliers just can't get any purchase on the valves themselves.

[GardenRail]

15hours on air!! How did you provide oil for the cylinders during this operation????

15 hours off and on over the course of a month.

Yes but the lubricator won't work on air.

15 hours off and on over the course of a month WITH frequent oiling breaks.

Gotcha!

[IrishPeter]

All right, here's another question. Any tips on how to get a good grip for adjusting the valves? I can unscrew the lock nut, no problem, but the pliers just can't get any purchase on the valves themselves.

I usually find that a quick squirt of WD40 gets rid of the acumulated oil 'residue' on the valve.  The valves usually have (and should, or else you are doing major damage to your loco) a thin film of steam oil on them which makes them very slippery.  Wiping the valve thoroughly dry with a kitchen towel usually does the trick.  You should then be OK for a few tweeks until the valve gets another coat of steam oil.  BTW, I find that snipe-nosed pliers, or jeweller's pliers work better than the ordinary kind and grip the outer-most end of the valve as that gets the least oil.

Peter in AZ

[Jerm]

I usually find that a quick squirt of WD40 gets rid of the acumulated oil 'residue' on the valve.  The valves usually have (and should, or else you are doing major damage to your loco) a thin film of steam oil on them which makes them very slippery.  Wiping the valve thoroughly dry with a kitchen towel usually does the trick.  You should then be OK for a few tweeks until the valve gets another coat of steam oil.  BTW, I find that snipe-nosed pliers, or jeweller's pliers work better than the ordinary kind and grip the outer-most end of the valve as that gets the least oil.

Peter in AZ

Thanks! I never even thought of the dish towel - considering that and the like is what I usually use to get rid of oil etc. Never would have thought about the WD-40, either. I'll give it a shot next time I'm in the workshop. I've narrowed my problems down to the valves needing adjustments (also the small cylinders, but I don't have the budget to fix that atm).

[IrishPeter]

Well the cylinder transplant was a success. We are now going to through the whistle and tweak stage as I get everything tight enough to hold. The only snag was an over tightened screw (which I initially thought was a Allen, but turned out to be a straight head that had been mangelled) which resulted in pinching a con rod off the other 'Ruby' which needs a rebuild.

The improvement in performance is considerable. From struggling uphill with three wagons it waltzed them up the grade on half regulator!

Peter in AZ