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Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 12:50 am
by mhlr
MoelygestLR wrote:mhlr wrote:MoelygestLR wrote:
My fifth (working) thing from IP is a second hand Jack loco which i have modified (by lots useful help and information from Ivan of IP) by uprating the power from 9V to 12V so she can now pull my dead Lady Ann up my nasty 1 in 36 (or something stupid like that) gradients.
How do u do that then? I need 12V for my 1 in summut silly to bring Edrig up!
Quite simple really
As far as i can remember i just replaced the battery box, which contained 6 x 1.5V batteries with a battery box that holds 8 x 1.5V batteries in - creating 12 Volts.
Well how can that increase the power? That will just make it faster, it's ampage that gives more power!
Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 11:18 am
by MoelygestLR
mhlr wrote:MoelygestLR wrote:mhlr wrote:MoelygestLR wrote:
My fifth (working) thing from IP is a second hand Jack loco which i have modified (by lots useful help and information from Ivan of IP) by uprating the power from 9V to 12V so she can now pull my dead Lady Ann up my nasty 1 in 36 (or something stupid like that) gradients.
How do u do that then? I need 12V for my 1 in summut silly to bring Edrig up!
Quite simple really
As far as i can remember i just replaced the battery box, which contained 6 x 1.5V batteries with a battery box that holds 8 x 1.5V batteries in - creating 12 Volts.
Well how can that increase the power? That will just make it faster, it's ampage that gives more power! :? ;)
Thats not the case, i'm not too sure of the physics behind it but it definatley didn't go any faster. Anyway I'm pretty sure it does increase the ampage as we had to check with Ivan of IP that the wires were up to the increased amps needed.
It's worked and made a drastic improvement anyhow.
Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 10:07 pm
by mhlr
Well I will have a go at then Paul!
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:32 pm
by Spule 4
steamyjim:5385 wrote:Any progress on the loco mate?
Four years later, yes.
I bought an IP horn for the loco and now I am looking at some detail items, maybe from Essel.
Gotta decide on a color, and remove about 4 years of sitting in the workshop rust.
I am also working out wiring it to switch between 3 and 1.5 volts.
Sorting out putting the batteries under the bonnet, and inverting the side frames.
More to come!
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:27 pm
by Adam R
I've one of these, I put a 10mm spacer between the motor chassis and the main loco frame at each screw, its stable enough! made from a bit of steel bar with a hole in it, the motor is unaffected, it just sits lower in the bonnet.
Ill get some pictures, I also lowered the axleboxes, though I didnt worry about inverting the frames as most NG diesels have frames near the edges of their loading gauge. Well most of the TR ones do apart from 9!
Ill get pictures when I remember.
Get brass gears if you haven't already as they tend to eat the nylon ones in quick succession, being fairly heavy and Mines used to tow in a dead steamer. Make the axles rough in the middle if you are adding a 4wd kit to make it last.
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:51 am
by Spule 4
Thanks for the reply Adam.
Good idea on the brass gears, who sells these, IP?
I used some fender washers to raise mine up, it is STILL below the Mamod buffer beam height tho!
Should make for an interesting model when done.
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:38 pm
by Chris Cairns
Spule4 wrote:Good idea on the brass gears, who sells these, IP?
Garrett,
We can get them from the
"we are no longer able to supply goods direct to the USA or Canada" Cambrian Models -
http://cambrianmodels.co.uk/16intropage2.html
Chris Cairns.
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:13 pm
by Spule 4
Chris Cairns:74925 wrote:Spule4 wrote:Good idea on the brass gears, who sells these, IP?
Garrett,
We can get them from the
"we are no longer able to supply goods direct to the USA or Canada" Cambrian Models -
http://cambrianmodels.co.uk/16intropage2.html
Chris Cairns.
Yes, I wonder about that, it is hard enough to sue someone in another state, nevermind another country, so I don't quite get this comment from a few suppliers related to their insurance providers?
Thanks for the link tho, I had someone offer a favor on help with such dealers, the downfall is no VAT deducted.
Got an e-mail into Essel as well...
Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:39 am
by GTB
Spule 4:74932 wrote:
Got an e-mail into Essel as well...
Try NWSL.
The IP plastic gears are 0.5mod and NWSL have 0.5mod gears listed. NWSL only have a 25t gear, instead of the 30t gear used by IP, so would need some modification to fit.
Also consider their O scale gearboxes. NWSL gearboxes are reasonable quality and an enclosed gearbox is a much better arrangement for garden use than open gears.
Graeme
Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:49 pm
by Spule 4
GTB:74959 wrote:Spule 4:74932 wrote:
Got an e-mail into Essel as well...
Try NWSL.
The IP plastic gears are 0.5mod and NWSL have 0.5mod gears listed. NWSL only have a 25t gear, instead of the 30t gear used by IP, so would need some modification to fit.
Also consider their O scale gearboxes. NWSL gearboxes are reasonable quality and an enclosed gearbox is a much better arrangement for garden use than open gears.
Graeme
YES! I have bought NSLW gears in the past and have had good luck for small scale projects, H0, H0e and the like... Thank you for the reminder!!
Actually, my e-mail to Essel was regarding some detail bits, but I may try and see if Ozark may have something that will work for my project.