Garden Railway Forum

Jimmyb wrote: Tue Mar 31, 2020 10:01 pm Rik, I built a couple of 0 gauge models, and found using different temperature solders and a temperature controlled iron helps when adding parts to an assembly, i.e. the cooler solder and lower temperature does not melt the main assembly.

Thanks Jimmy
I've got a 100W iron but my temperature controlled iron is only 48W. Not sure if it will handle some of the bigger chunks of metal but maybe they will dissipate the heat quickly enough for it not to be a problem

Rik

Rik, I used a 80 watt for the large items, my temperature controlled iron is 50 watts, so similar, and for low melt solder worked okay.

ge_rik wrote: Tue Mar 31, 2020 7:19 pm I've also learned that it would be a lot easier if I had another hand - and that wearing a glove on the left hand does make life easier when things get a bit hot!

You haven't been mucking around on this job......

The learning curve may be steep, but it flattens quickly with practice. You seem to be getting the knack which will build your confidence.

Unfortunately the blind watchmaker didn't consider soldering when doing the initial design work. I've got some small toolmakers clamps and some miniature sash clamps. I sometimes use those and blocks of wood to hold parts in alignment so I can solder the joint. Mine are brass, so if I don't want them to act as a heatsink I use off-cuts of thin ply to insulate the clamp from the part.

Tinning parts first and using liquid flux helps with making neat joints. You don't need much solder in a joint as the stuff is weak, so large fillets don't make the joint any stronger. It's the solder in the joint that does the work.

I find gloves thick enough to act as insulation are clumsy and if I need to hold something close to where I'm soldering, I use a piece of ply or a block of wood between me and the metal. My soldering bench has a small pile of scorched wooden blocks and bits of ply for just that purpose.

I was taught basic glassblowing in my chemistry course, but have never developed the asbestos fingers of a professional glass blower. A TA in my lab had been a glassblower and could pick up hot glassware that I wouldn't touch with welding gloves.

Regards,
Graeme

On more familiar territory today. Firstly, I tackled the interior detailing of the cab - using plasticard and a few other bits and pieces. .
The driver needed minor surgery to give the impression he was actually in control. .
The seat has been lowered since this photo was taken, but all the bits seem to fit OK and are based on a photo of the interior of the cab so I think they are in the right places. .
The other job was soldering up and fitting the electrics (a bit blurry but you get the gist) .
These are then covered by the fuel tank which is actually in the cab near the driver. Let's hope he doesn't like a smoke whilst on duty! .
Hopefully, working on the roof tomorrow and then the cab will b mostly (structurally) finished.


Rik

Latest update
The cab section is almost finished structurally. I've installed all the electrics including a soundcard and given her a test run (video to follow). As you can see, she has been through the paintshop for a coat of primer. .
There is still plenty more to do. The roof and bonnet are only loose fits at the moment. The bonnet holds the batteries and the roof holds the electronics, which is still a bit of a bird's nest. .
There's also a fair bit of filling and rubbing-down to be done before applying the final livery. The interior of the cab is more or less finished except for glazing and internal window frames and bars. .
She's still a little bit stiff legged when she runs but I'm hoping a bit of tweaking will sort that out. The good news is that the electrics work as they are supposed to and my handiwork doesn't look too disreputable.

Rik

That's come together really well Rik, especially as you had no instructions. It will look right at home on your line too.

Video of her first test run .....


Rik

Be very nice once you've sorted that tight spot. Windy up your way today, obviously.

Looking (& sounding) good, good work

Coming together well Rik. Looks kind of cute on its own.
Grant.

LNR wrote: Mon Apr 06, 2020 1:13 am Coming together well Rik. Looks kind of cute on its own.
Grant.

Thanks Grant.
I was thinking of making interchangeable bodies for it - the railcar passenger compartment as supplied and a railtruck body which looks like it will fit the same tractor unit. .
Rik

Funnily enough, when I saw it running in your video yesterday I thought it looked more like a pickup than a railcar. This picture is exactly the sort of thing I was thinking of.

Rik, you truly are inspirational

It's amazing how you fit everything in. It's nice looking model - quite unusual with the coupled wheels (to me anyway).
I can see the slight 'binding' as it moves. If you can't open out the conrod holes maybe the pins can be made a bit smaller?

The idle sound is beautiful. (but a little less good when running - sorry). Anyway I always say 'any sound is better than none.'

ge_rik wrote: Mon Apr 06, 2020 8:15 am a railtruck body which looks like it will fit the same tractor unit.

Wow!! that looks the business. Perfect match.
Grant.

A tad more progress.
The main structure for the trailer is now assembled. .
It was easier than the cab - fewer, larger pieces and so easier to get the iron in to the awkward corners. A 100W iron might be useful for delivering the heat but I find it a bit unwieldy! Please don't look too closely at my soldering - remember I'm still learning .
All those gaps will be filled with carved bass wood. I've made a start on carving the roof (and my thumb!!! ) but have run out of bass wood and so will have to await deliveries. The good news is that I've run it on all the possible sticky bits of my railway and as far as I can see there are no clearance issues!! I even tried running it through some R1 radius LGB points and it managed them with no problem!! All the supports for the seats are in place but, of course, I will have to make the seats and fancy curved backs. Which is why I've been exploring the possibility of getting el cheapo 3D printer. I've bitten the bullet and ordered it. Just have to figure out how to work it and then get to grips with 3D drawing software!!

I might be picking the brains of a few forumites in the next few days/weeks/months/years!!!!

Rik

Well done Rik, having a go is the first hurdle!

That sure is a major construction job. You make it look easy.
Is the thing articulated or pivoted on the 'bogies' or what?

gregh wrote: Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:15 am That sure is a major construction job. You make it look easy.
Is the thing articulated or pivoted on the 'bogies' or what?

Hi Greg
It's articulated between the tractor unit and the trailer, and the trailer unit is mounted on a swivelling bogie, so it's a bit of both. I was a bit concerned that the clearances around the articulation pivot are a bit tight and wondered whether it would successfully take the tight curves which exist on my railway, but it seems to have negotiated all of the with no problem. Presumably, as the original vehicle was designed for Irish 3' narrow gauge railways, they ensured it would be a bit snake-like.

Rik

Thanks Rik. All the similar things I've ever seen in Oz were articulated that way. I'm glad it gets around all your curves.