Constructing an elevated track

DickH · Post by **DickH** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:57 pm

Hi everyone - two questions for a new bee that wants to build an elevated track.

Any recommendations on spacing between the upright posts?

Anyone tried Metposts rather than concreting in the posts?

LnBmad · Post by **LnBmad** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:54 pm

Take a look at tom's line for raised inspiration.... Stunning work here

http://tinyurl.com/16mmNGM-rwlr

tom_tom_go · Post by **tom_tom_go** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 9:08 am

.... Stunning work here

More a professional bodge

Welcome Dick!

I used Metposts with no issues although I would recommend buying a two-handed fence post hammer as I did it with just a one-handed sledge hammer and it was hard work and buggered my arm for days.

Also, the use of Metposts without concrete will depend on the soil you are banging them into (soil in my garden has lot's of clay in it so I got away with it).

Please fire away with questions

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 2:05 pm

Dick, you and I live within the same geographical area so probably experience similar ground conditions. Depending on what you are trying to achieve with the final appearance of your line, you have many options available in construction materials which could be used. If you are sure you want stakes in the ground and it is clay (as it is here) then I agree with tom, use a post rammer (about £40 well spent). Between the posts I used treated timber as longitudinal supports with treated planks on top. Everything screwed together for maximum strength. Distances can vary if the material section is adequate.
Having said the above, this now leaves you with a highly visible, and non-prototypical viaduct which you might want to disguise at some point. Now is the time to take this on-board and possibly view other railways for alternative ideas.
As I have sloping ground some of my track is below ground level whilst some is on a platform used as a station area. I also asked members for advice and can only pass on to you some of the help I received from them. Take your time and the solutuion will become clear.

DickH · Post by **DickH** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 4:07 pm

Thanks for all the advice - I certainly want to try and do it "right first time". I want an elevated track being an overweight old man who wants to see my trains chuffing around whilst I'm sitting in my chair!! Thinking of having it elevated 2' 6" - 2'9" off the ground and a bit higher at the rear as I have a slight slope to the garden. It will be mainly single track with a station, works loco shed area with passing loop at the front. Peter hopefully we will meet on the 2nd November - if not definitely on the 13th and I will show you a layout of what I plan and I very much look forward to seeing your layout - looks impressive in the photos I've seen.

Regards

methsman · Post by **methsman** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:14 am

Hi Im in a similar position as Dick H ,ie age group and wanting a raised line.I noted in Sept Garden Rail a mention of using 75 mm Square plastic rain down pipe, for up rights; Ive been toying with this idea with plastic fascia boards for the track base.
Can anyone throw any light on this type of construction as it seems to offer a lot of potential,in that its light weight and rot free.
Thanks in advance Chris

DickH · Post by **DickH** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:01 pm

Hi Chris,

interesting idea with drain pipes - my concern would be strength - not sure hollow drain pipe would be adequate.

Was is interesting was that I was informed at the weekend about an article in the May edition of Garden Rail which shows a plastic elevated track made from recycled plastic originally made for decking but is now doing a business for garden rail. Company is Filcris and their web site is www.filcris.co.uk and on the web site is the article from Garden rail - not cheap but not much more than wood with all the benefits of plastic plus the flexibility of the plastic.

My layout is reasonably large with about 180' of track so I will do in three stages of three oval loops that with inventually join with a larger station/shunting complex at the front. Let me know what you think.

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:08 pm

Chris, I understand your position on the sustainability of plastics used outdoors and in theory it makes sense. However, having used these materials for their design purpose, I doubt they would be up to the job you intend.
Plastic downpipes are strong enough to support the load you would give them but if too tall would be flexible. Attaching a fascia board might be interesting as there are no brackets designed for this purpose. Also, fascia boards themselves would flex up and down and not give a smooth and flat surface on which to lay track.
All of these materials are made of a plastic which would not accept adhesive to fix ballast, assuming you would use ballast. The fascia board is only a few mm thick and would not be easy to fix track to with either screws or nails.
It sounds as though I'm trying to put you off but if you think of ways around these potential problems perhaps you can make it work. If so, please tell me.

tom_tom_go · Post by **tom_tom_go** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:11 pm

I saw this advertised a while back so if you want to use plastics this would be better:

http://www.filcris.co.uk/blog/tag/recyc ... -products/

methsman · Post by **methsman** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:41 pm

Hi Dick,I agree the down pipes wouldnt be very strong but if filled with sand or sand cement they would be. As for Filcris,I thought it was expensive for what is basically a waste product.
The downpipes and fascia boards are also readily available at the big DIY sheds enabling the construction to take place as and when cash and time allow.
Im considering building at about 2 ft high with uprights spaced at 2 ft
thereby negating the use of any other support for the fascia board.
What Im trying to do is keep the cost and amount of heavy work to the minimum.

Enginehouse · Post by **Enginehouse** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:11 pm

We used redundant scaffolding poles, a couple of lengths of 1" x 1/4" angle to form the adjustable Ts and we used whatever board came to hand for the track, roads and buildings base. A very fast and solid build indeed. However our method needs a couple of specialist tools. A 9" bladed angle grinder to cut steel. Mig welder to form T brackets from angle. Sledge and two way level to drive in section posts. We fitted the T brackets to the uprights with horshoe clamps and so levelling and re-levelling was easy. Low maintenance. No rot. Only mistake - we used torch on felt. This method is cheap, quick to build and easy to modify or extend.

DickH · Post by **DickH** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 7:52 pm

Hi Chris,

just costed out the Filcris material for my layout - £2350!! This in addition to cementing 50 support posts into the ground - think I'm about to start a diet and go back to a ground track!!

Let me know how you get on with the downpipes.

Enginehouse - any photos of the scaffolding/t brackets?

jim@NAL · Post by **jim@NAL** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:22 pm

im a carpenter / builder .iv used the plastic decking a lot .its not harf as good as wood it bends and fexs a lot.now as for using down pipe I don't think this is strong enouth.it also tends to go very brittle and brake up if its in soil and even filling with concrete and sand seams a lot of effort when you could jest buy a wooden post.the easiest and cheapest way is probably wooden posts hammerd in to the ground and decking or scaffold borads on top or 3/4 ich marrene ply .8ft square posts are 15pounds each round ones are 8 to 10 pounds each .scaffold boards are 17 pounds each new.

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 10:28 pm

I think Jim has just confirmed my concerns about plastics used in this way. I have already gone through this design process myself and my method is strong enough to stand on, rigid and much cheaper than using Jim's suggestion.
If you look at 'Railways and Layouts' in this forum, my own railway is featured in 'Time to build a railway et.....' This shows the posts I used which are treated, round fence posts as used in fields etc..
Once rammed into the ground they are very rigid and can be secured together with 2x1 and topped with 6x1 gravel boards, all pressure treated timber. The cost of posts is more like £2.00 each (or less) and the boards about .60p /metre.
My local merchant even delivers free of charge and you can't get cheaper than that!
Once assembled, the whole surface is covered with under slate roofing felt which allows for expansion and contraction of the timbers but prevents ballast dropping through any gaps which may form.
I chose to clad the front of my posts to hide them but that is optional as it is not needed for support.

methsman · Post by **methsman** » Tue Oct 29, 2013 2:51 pm

Thanks for your replies: Your knowledge of these materials is most helpful ,it seems to me that a combination of gravel boards ,exterior ply with wooden posts is the way to go.
Thanks again Chris

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Constructing an elevated track

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