"If I stick my finger there...."
"I'll pack it in real good"
"It's so hard!"
....
We're making jigstones. Get your minds out of the gutter!
Your trick worked! It's just that as we were trying to work out the measurements of cement/water it kept getting too thick to work with and we almost ruined the mixing pot at one point!MDLR:67679 wrote:Keep on dropping it on the bench from about 2" off - you'll get rid of the bubbles that way......................
The ones that were gloopy took a while to set though! I'm not sure they look any better, to be honest.MDLR:67683 wrote:You're much better off with a sloppy mix (if you'll pardon the expression) - they may take a little longer to dry off but you can guarantee that it'll flow into all the detail. The same applies when you cast window frames, doors and other details from car filler - keep it sloppy!
Either a moulded roof from a Jigstones mould made with fibreglass car filler, or a corrugated roof from styrene sheet, or (if you insist) a corrugated card roof (coz I know you've got the relevant equipment) well soaked in shellac - ask Tim if he's got any. It's a meths-based "varnish" which will impregnate the card and make it reasonably weatherproof.PeachBottom:67694 wrote:What was your suggestion for the roof?
Can you recommend a brand? I tried it with Isopon P38 (as suggested by the jigstones instructions) but thought the whole thing seemed a bit thin and delicate, as well as translucent at the thin parts (big problem if we illuminate the building). Also, I suppose a rigid sub-base would be necessary if the building is too big to be covered by a single moulded piece- I had thought of using perspex daubed in matt black to render it opaque.MDLR:67699 wrote:... a moulded roof from a Jigstones mould made with fibreglass car filler
I used P38, but the golden rule (as with resin buildings) is to paint it inside and out - I once had a building that glowed in the dark before i painted it - white spray primer is good enough...............TommyDodd:67701 wrote:Can you recommend a brand? I tried it with Isopon P38 (as suggested by the jigstones instructions) but thought the whole thing seemed a bit thin and delicate, as well as translucent at the thin parts (big problem if we illuminate the building). Also, I suppose a rigid sub-base would be necessary if the building is too big to be covered by a single moulded piece- I had thought of using perspex daubed in matt black to render it opaque.
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