Is a RH kit hard to make?

[mikewakefielduk@btinterne]

It has been done but where would you fit the reversing lever in an already overcrowded cab?

[DLRdan]

Same side as the gas tank, then you move the regulator handle to the opposite side of the cab. In forward the reverser does get close to the boiler but still fits in.

[Jon Mead]

I don't think that the lack of a sightglass is an issue for the classic range of locos. As others have said, the boiler and gas tank are sized such that the gas will run out before the boiler runs dry, so provided you follow the correct operating procedure, there is little need of a sightglass. I certainly don't view this as a problem with my Billy or Lady Ann.

I have built a Billy from a kit, and would say that it is straightforward for someone with a reasonable feel for mechanical things. One tip I'd give is when fitting the wheels, use a vice to properly seat them against the shoulders on the axles. Relying on the countersunk screws to pull the wheel down snug doesn't really work.

Those of you who have seen my soldering demonstrations at the 16mmNGM show will know that I prefer to use a BIG soldering iron to build body kits rather than a gas torch.

Painting is quite straightforward if you are happy with satin black - the Halfords matt and satin black aerosols stand up to boiler temperatures well, but the colours will go soft when you fire the loco. If you have to paint the loco any other than black, then Phoenix Precision Paints are a good choice.

Having built one kit, I'd be happy to paint as I go rather than put everything together and then dismantle for painting, as I'm confident that everything will fit together OK.

[mikewakefielduk@btinterne]

I don't think that the lack of a sightglass is an issue for the classic range of locos. As others have said, the boiler and gas tank are sized such that the gas will run out before the boiler runs dry, so provided you follow the correct operating procedure, there is little need of a sightglass. I certainly don't view this as a problem with my Billy or Lady Ann.

After a run I prefer to refill my locos through a Goodall valve and without a sight glass I have no real idea how much water's left and therefore how much to put in. I know sight glasses can be inaccurate but they do give you some idea.

Of course its not just Roundhouse Classic series locos that can't be fitted with sight glasses, my Ragleth is the same.

[Chris Cairns]

I agree with the lack of a boiler sight glass on many model engineering boilers, being used to the full size world where we are required to have at least two methods of determining the boiler water level.

One method I've heard to overcome the problems with liquid gas on initial light up with Accucraft locos is to partly fill the gas tank, use that gas to bring the loco up to working pressure, then fill up the gas tank which has now been warmed so there should be no problem with liquid gas. However I've not found anyone who has done this and then confirmed how much water remains in the boiler after refilling the gas tank (I've measured both my Ragleth & Edrig when operated as per the Accucraft instructions).

As Mike has said I cannot see the advantage of fitting a water filler valve on a loco that is not fitted with a sight glass, unless you adopt our full size technique for water & coal of 'a little & often'.

Chris Cairns