Accucraft reversing valve set up

[tom_tom_go]

This is for an 0-4-0 chassis.

From the Ruby kit manual I am reading that you adjust the reversing valve so that when the reversing lever is in the forward position the groove on the valve is just touching the back side of the valve assembly.

Out of the factory, mine does the opposite unless I am mistaken about what is forward/reverse:

To me, this is in reverse


And yet the reversing valve is touching the back side of the valve assembly:


Put the reversing lever in forward and then then valve is no where near the valve assembly:


Could someone have a look at their Edrig, Ragleth, etc please and tell me how it is set up?

[DLRdan]

My Lawley is the same as your chassis and a quick google shows why. If you look at the picture the reversing lever on the Ruby is connected directly to the valve, whereas the Edrig has a rocker arm which reverses the action. As set you chassis should run just fine.

http://img.schienendampf.com/forumimage ... bel001.jpg


EDIT: Just thought, if you are following the eccentric setting for the Ruby then it will be 180 degrees out, so backwards will be forwards etc.

[tom_tom_go]

Thanks for checking, makes sense now.

Did a steam test but runs completely shite in reverse?!

[DLRdan]

Its because in reverse the piston valves are pushed out the valve slightly as the steam is being admited at the front of the valve. The way I got round this was to screw the valves slightly further in. This made forward slightly worse but improved reverse, its a bit of a balancing act Im affraid

[tom_tom_go]

A balancing act, not arf!

I guess I just need to keep adjusting it but at the moment it runs great forward, nearly as good in reverse but only when the reverser is in neutral so guessing the reverser valve is not set correctly.

Not sure if one of the cylinder valves are still not right as steam constantly keeps coming out of the right drain cocks when in forward or reverse?

[Big Jim]

Lay your locomotive on its side. Locate the reverser piston valve in the centre below the smokebox. It will have a scribed ring around the stainless steel piston rod.
Put the locomotive into reverse gear. As you do this the scribed line will just disappear into its steam chest. If it still shows, or goes in significantly more, then adjust using the locknuts on the shaft ? These may well be loose hence change in performance.

Once this is complete, place locomotive starboard side down. Turn the wheels anti clockwise as if running forward. As the main axle cranks reach 6 o'clock the scribed lines on the valve rod above the cylinder should just disappear into the steam chest. Adjust if required using the lock nuts.

Repeat for starboard side. One of these three adjustments you will probably find have loosened off hence drop in performance.

Your loco is now timed.

The above was posted by Tag Gorton and I found it handy when trying to sort out a reluctant Carodoc. I know the Ruby might be slightly different but it might be of use.

I do find that my Caradoc can go out of tune with alarming regularity if I don't use a bit of thread lock on the threads.

[tom_tom_go]

Thanks Jim, I found that post as well and got it all working now (dare I say it better than the factory!)

I think thread locker is worth using for sure.

[Big Jim]

Make sure you use one than can be undone in case of problems, I use Loctite 243 (and keep it in the fridge, it lasts longer) While it is not the strongest and is not the most impervious to oil etc, it works for me.

[Chris Cairns]

There are two methods for setting up the Ruby valve timing - outside admission & inside admission, see here - http://www.accucraft.de/Ruby_-_Adjustment.pdf

Chris Cairns