Perrow Coast Railway

dws · Post by **dws** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:29 am

Can I ask why you are avoiding roofing felt ?

TTHLRMatt · Post by **TTHLRMatt** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:59 am

I have nothing against anyone else using it, its just personal preference plus, on my previous line at my dads, it was used and 5 years on, its peeling and looking very grotty, its also a nightmare to ballast and move the ballast around on and also does not give too nice a look in my opinion. Ours is instead getting a coat of ensele (end sealant) and a few of stain which will then be covered with track and ballast

dws · Post by **dws** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:13 am

Thanks for your reply, can I ask were you got the Ensele from ?

TTHLRMatt · Post by **TTHLRMatt** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:16 am

Dont worry, the project will be running for a very long time yet hahahaha. We still have the 3ft high quarry face to go!!!!
I really dont know where we got the ensele from. I may be able to find out later on as Michael is currently running a railway. I think you may be able to get it from b&q. Be careful though, toxic!!!

dws · Post by **dws** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:15 am

TTHLRMatt:85683 wrote:Dont worry, the project will be running for a very long time yet hahahaha. We still have the 3ft high quarry face to go!!!!
I really dont know where we got the ensele from. I may be able to find out later on as Michael is currently running a railway. I think you may be able to get it from b&q. Be careful though, toxic!!!

Have found out you can get Ensele from Toolstation.

MDLR · Post by **MDLR** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:55 pm

Coming along nicely! One (very minor) point: if the loco's called Ecchlefechan, why has it got plates with MOELWYN on?

TTHLRMatt · Post by **TTHLRMatt** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:37 pm

Leads a double life!!!

No just we have a nameplate issue, only 3 of our locos have correct plates on. Similar is my Bertie Tarn Holt still has Berwyn plates on!!!!!

MDLR · Post by **MDLR** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:54 pm

The problem is that plates are quite expensive - a set for No 19 will cost more than the loco kit did!

TTHLRMatt · Post by **TTHLRMatt** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:57 pm

No 19 and how much was the kit? The thing thats putting it off is the waiting time!!!

MDLR · Post by **MDLR** » Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:19 pm

The kit was under £30 - a set of name plates are £32!

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:47 pm

I've just caught up with this thread having been off-line for a few days.... Now this is my kind of construction! Welded (tick). Thick timbers (another tick) Preservative coating (tick,tick)... superb! Built to last.
One question though.... with the gap between the timbers and your aversion to roofing felt, how do you prevent the ballast from falling down the gaps and leaving lines across the track?

TTHLRMatt · Post by **TTHLRMatt** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:39 am

Thanks for your comments Peter. Welding was the only way to do it cheaply as we are using old railway fencing poles. The way we will stop ballast dropping through is that the gap is no larger than 2 mm and so, most ballast especially the swift sixteen stuff we are using for the station, will not fall through!!!!

Dr. Bond of the DVLR · Post by **Dr. Bond of the DVLR** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 12:16 pm

You may find it will find a way anyway Matt. I have had enormous trouble in the past getting ballast to stick to wood in the garden - what method are you planning?

MDLR · Post by **MDLR** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 12:49 pm

Daft question - why bother with ballast at all on a construction like yours? It's not doing anything to keep the track in place, it holds water (making the wood rot) and it's bu&&er to stick down!

As you look like being "operators" rather than "Scenic Modellers" (otherwise you'd have brought a mini-digger in and gone for a scenic line) the lack of ballast shouldn't bother you too much - besides, it only jams points up..................

TTHLRMatt · Post by **TTHLRMatt** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 5:26 pm

To answer both Zach and Brian in one go, I am going to do my usual trick and put some large limestone chips down first and ballast on top, this should hold it, being loose!!!. Brian, I am by far a scenic modeler, its just it has to be up height for two reasons. A) Guinea pigs mean minimal space taken at the bottom of the garden and so a raised bed is appropriate. Also the DA says no brick walls!!! B) The garden is on a slope and so works out at that height for the steaming bay.
I am mad over scenics, Jigstones, the 2ft high quarry face ect ect, love scenics!!!!

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:50 pm

I'm with you all the way Matt, scenics make the railway and ballast is an essential part of that!
There seems little point in having a railway in the garden if there is no attempt to integrate it with natural materials. You might just as well put a circle of track on a car park!
Contraversial!...me???

MDLR · Post by **MDLR** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:56 am

Peter Butler:85762 wrote:I'm with you all the way Matt, scenics make the railway and ballast is an essential part of that!
There seems little point in having a railway in the garden if there is no attempt to integrate it with natural materials. You might just as well put a circle of track on a car park!
Contraversial!...me???

So this wouldn't appeal?

0r this...................?

Admittedly, this line (at Fiskerton in Nottinghamshire) isn't ALL like this, and it DOES look better when its got plants around it, but it does work and minimizes gardening!

laurence703 · Post by **laurence703** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:48 pm

For ballast why not do what Hussra has done in his line and used roofing felt? Its water proof and you can probably stick stuff to it but I'm not sure how flammable it is...

TTHLRMatt · Post by **TTHLRMatt** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 8:17 pm

Not really appealing Brian, far more scenic for me, low to ground as possible.
Laurence, read back up the thread, I have had previous bad experiences with ageing roofing felt.

jim@NAL · Post by **jim@NAL** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 8:21 pm

good work looking very good .im a carpenter good to see you spaced your planks .thay should not rot for about 35 years probably more if its tantalised timber (normaly a green colour).you could put a small bead of mastic inbetween your wood .one more question what screws are u using to screw your planks down ?

Garden Railway Forum

Perrow Coast Railway

Who is online