Mamod/MSS Wheels repair or replacement?
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Mamod/MSS Wheels repair or replacement?
Mamod or MSS locomotive wheels are one of the weaknesses of these models. They were/are constructed with 2 Mazak (zinc die cast) cast wheels, 2 coupling crank pins, 2 brass bearings and a steel axle. A wheel set is completed with 2 brass coupling rods using washers and e-clips. I assume like most other Mamod products of the time the coupling crank pins were punch pressed into the wheels (one of the weaknesses as they work loose particularly on the Mamod wheels, the MSS wheels use a different style of punch and seem to be more secure).
The different punches used on the crank pins, Mamod (red) on the left, MSS (black) on the right.
The wheels were/are probably pressed onto the shaft using a 3 or 4 splined punch press which is the main weakness of these wheels as they work loose (particularly the leading axle which is powered by the pistons) - both the Mamod & MSS wheels suffer from this problem (I've heard of an MSS wheel completely falling off an axle shortly after it's owner starting running it in).
An unfinished Mamod wheel casting on the left, and the punched steel shaft on the right.
The loose wheels can be fixed with some success. I have found it is very difficult to find a suitable shaped punch to just punch the shafts back into the wheels, and the harder you drive that punch the more you risk bending the steel axle. So I use a set of mole grips to hold the centre of the axle and gentling prise off the loose wheels. After re-punching the coupling crank pins as necessary (the leading axle crank pin needs to be supported in a vice or similar so that it does not bend when punched), I roughen up the end of the axles with coarse sandpaper. Having tried epoxy and various super glues, following a good recommendation, I’m now a convert of using Loctite 603 to fix the wheels back onto the axle, making sure you have set up the correct 90 degrees crank pin offset.
Another problem with the Mamod/MSS wheels is they have a small tread and being made from Mazak are quite light so this opened up an after market for replacement steel wheels. There were/are several different styles produced, and hopefully other Members can add their experience here for types I have not included.
MGM Engineering – This company offered a service where the original Mamod wheels were pressed onto replacement steel axles and the chassis frames were punched to hold the brass axle bearings in place (another weakness of the Mamod/MSS design as the bearings are free to rotate in the chassis frames, and also are a loose fit so allow some sideways movement as well – I now use Araldite Rapid Steel epoxy to hold these bearings in place).
MGM Engineering reworked Mamod wheels.
I’m experimenting with a set of Mamod wheels which have been Loctite 603’d to a replacement 5/32” steel axle.
Unknown Maker – These spoked steels wheels were fitted to a modified SL1K I obtained. The front crank pins were long 8BA screws which had a small hole drilled through them for a locking pin. That was their weakness and both screws fractured as the pistons were seized.
The unknown maker Mamod wheels.
A new crank pin for the front wheels with an 8BA threaded stud would make these wheels usable again – sadly that’s above my current limited workshop tools and skills.
IP Engineering – Originally they produced a set of holed disk steel wheels which were used in the IP Jane and also for Mamod & MSS upgrades. These used a tight fitting bearing which was held into the chassis frames by nuts. However these needed to be aligned correctly for free running, and indeed it was recommended to shorten the Mamod/MSS chassis spacer to help (the IP Eng Meths Burner spacer is shorter than the Mamod/MSS one).
IP Eng holed disk wheels fitted to an IP Jane (coupling rods were supplied unpainted).
Showing the style of bearings used by IP Eng.
Towards the end of IP Eng Mamod upgrades these wheels became plain steel disks instead. In use these wheels can work loose but Loctite 603 will fix them back onto the axles. IP Eng also produced a replacement coupling rod which is of a light weight steel thus easily bent – in use I have found I have had to ream out the holes for the coupling rod pins otherwise they can lock the wheels up.
Dream Steam – Originally set up from the sale of the IP Eng Mamod upgrades their recent plain steel wheels have suffered from quality control problems.
An early set of Dream Steam wheels (possibly old IP Eng stock), together with a Peter Jones Loco Works wheel insert.
I have a 2nd pair where the size of the nuts used to hold the bearings into the chassis frames is different on each axle (needing another spanner or an adjustable), and I’ve seen a set of 45mm wheels which had too small spacers added allowing too much sideways play. Like the IP Eng steel wheels they can also work loose.
PPS Steam – Originally they produced a set of plain steel wheels (same as the IP Eng ones), and then followed up with a set of spoked wheels which use a similar style of loose brass bearing as fitted to the Mamod/MSS wheels. Again the plain steel wheels have been reported as working loose.
PPS plain steel wheels (note the rust!).
PPS spoked steel wheels.
Roy Wood Models – Set up from the sale of the PPS stock, Roy offers the plain steel wheels and the spoked wheels. He has also produced a new style of coupling rod, and again I’ve had to ream out the holes to fit a set of IP Eng holed disk wheels (seems there are slight variations in the diameter of crank pins used between the various wheels).
One problem with the steel wheels is they do rust in use, particularly the plain steel wheels which are unpainted. They also look rather boring with those plain disks. Inserts were produced for a short time by Alan Briggs until he had to make a rather rapid exit from the industry, and a new alternative may be available from the Peter Jones Loco Works.
A Peter Jones Loco Works wheel insert. Due to the variation is sizes of the machined steel wheel disks Peter has made these slightly oversize so they can be sanded/filed down to the right size for a tight friction fit (this one needs a bit more work yet).
Hopefully other Members will be able to add some more information to this Topic.
Chris Cairns.
The different punches used on the crank pins, Mamod (red) on the left, MSS (black) on the right.
The wheels were/are probably pressed onto the shaft using a 3 or 4 splined punch press which is the main weakness of these wheels as they work loose (particularly the leading axle which is powered by the pistons) - both the Mamod & MSS wheels suffer from this problem (I've heard of an MSS wheel completely falling off an axle shortly after it's owner starting running it in).
An unfinished Mamod wheel casting on the left, and the punched steel shaft on the right.
The loose wheels can be fixed with some success. I have found it is very difficult to find a suitable shaped punch to just punch the shafts back into the wheels, and the harder you drive that punch the more you risk bending the steel axle. So I use a set of mole grips to hold the centre of the axle and gentling prise off the loose wheels. After re-punching the coupling crank pins as necessary (the leading axle crank pin needs to be supported in a vice or similar so that it does not bend when punched), I roughen up the end of the axles with coarse sandpaper. Having tried epoxy and various super glues, following a good recommendation, I’m now a convert of using Loctite 603 to fix the wheels back onto the axle, making sure you have set up the correct 90 degrees crank pin offset.
Another problem with the Mamod/MSS wheels is they have a small tread and being made from Mazak are quite light so this opened up an after market for replacement steel wheels. There were/are several different styles produced, and hopefully other Members can add their experience here for types I have not included.
MGM Engineering – This company offered a service where the original Mamod wheels were pressed onto replacement steel axles and the chassis frames were punched to hold the brass axle bearings in place (another weakness of the Mamod/MSS design as the bearings are free to rotate in the chassis frames, and also are a loose fit so allow some sideways movement as well – I now use Araldite Rapid Steel epoxy to hold these bearings in place).
MGM Engineering reworked Mamod wheels.
I’m experimenting with a set of Mamod wheels which have been Loctite 603’d to a replacement 5/32” steel axle.
Unknown Maker – These spoked steels wheels were fitted to a modified SL1K I obtained. The front crank pins were long 8BA screws which had a small hole drilled through them for a locking pin. That was their weakness and both screws fractured as the pistons were seized.
The unknown maker Mamod wheels.
A new crank pin for the front wheels with an 8BA threaded stud would make these wheels usable again – sadly that’s above my current limited workshop tools and skills.
IP Engineering – Originally they produced a set of holed disk steel wheels which were used in the IP Jane and also for Mamod & MSS upgrades. These used a tight fitting bearing which was held into the chassis frames by nuts. However these needed to be aligned correctly for free running, and indeed it was recommended to shorten the Mamod/MSS chassis spacer to help (the IP Eng Meths Burner spacer is shorter than the Mamod/MSS one).
IP Eng holed disk wheels fitted to an IP Jane (coupling rods were supplied unpainted).
Showing the style of bearings used by IP Eng.
Towards the end of IP Eng Mamod upgrades these wheels became plain steel disks instead. In use these wheels can work loose but Loctite 603 will fix them back onto the axles. IP Eng also produced a replacement coupling rod which is of a light weight steel thus easily bent – in use I have found I have had to ream out the holes for the coupling rod pins otherwise they can lock the wheels up.
Dream Steam – Originally set up from the sale of the IP Eng Mamod upgrades their recent plain steel wheels have suffered from quality control problems.
An early set of Dream Steam wheels (possibly old IP Eng stock), together with a Peter Jones Loco Works wheel insert.
I have a 2nd pair where the size of the nuts used to hold the bearings into the chassis frames is different on each axle (needing another spanner or an adjustable), and I’ve seen a set of 45mm wheels which had too small spacers added allowing too much sideways play. Like the IP Eng steel wheels they can also work loose.
PPS Steam – Originally they produced a set of plain steel wheels (same as the IP Eng ones), and then followed up with a set of spoked wheels which use a similar style of loose brass bearing as fitted to the Mamod/MSS wheels. Again the plain steel wheels have been reported as working loose.
PPS plain steel wheels (note the rust!).
PPS spoked steel wheels.
Roy Wood Models – Set up from the sale of the PPS stock, Roy offers the plain steel wheels and the spoked wheels. He has also produced a new style of coupling rod, and again I’ve had to ream out the holes to fit a set of IP Eng holed disk wheels (seems there are slight variations in the diameter of crank pins used between the various wheels).
One problem with the steel wheels is they do rust in use, particularly the plain steel wheels which are unpainted. They also look rather boring with those plain disks. Inserts were produced for a short time by Alan Briggs until he had to make a rather rapid exit from the industry, and a new alternative may be available from the Peter Jones Loco Works.
A Peter Jones Loco Works wheel insert. Due to the variation is sizes of the machined steel wheel disks Peter has made these slightly oversize so they can be sanded/filed down to the right size for a tight friction fit (this one needs a bit more work yet).
Hopefully other Members will be able to add some more information to this Topic.
Chris Cairns.
- dougrail
- Driver
- Posts: 1532
- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:11 pm
- Location: Salopia; on the edge of Arcadia
Word of advice for any set of steel wheels: paint them as soon as is possible.
I purchased a set of steel wheels from Dream Steam at the end of the Plymouth operation. I then was likely the last ever customer with Alan Briggs [regretting the £40 of goods lost...] and got my tank/cab overlays [the 'armour'] and brass wheel inputs for the 'disc' steel wheels.
They were designed in brass, to be pushfit and to make the wheel resemble the disc-with-spokes of the Talyllyn. I painted them firstly in stove paint, cooked them, then went over them with some Revell enamels. Then after each session I carefully clean and dry the wheels, ensuring no water or emulsion remains on them. The tyres and the inside/back of the wheels are also still rust free after 15 months in service.
Caveat is is that the loco gets steamed up roughly once a fortnight, be it on a railway or more often, on my HogHill skates. But the fact is with some paint and attention the dreaded steel wheel rust can be averted. [/img]
I purchased a set of steel wheels from Dream Steam at the end of the Plymouth operation. I then was likely the last ever customer with Alan Briggs [regretting the £40 of goods lost...] and got my tank/cab overlays [the 'armour'] and brass wheel inputs for the 'disc' steel wheels.
They were designed in brass, to be pushfit and to make the wheel resemble the disc-with-spokes of the Talyllyn. I painted them firstly in stove paint, cooked them, then went over them with some Revell enamels. Then after each session I carefully clean and dry the wheels, ensuring no water or emulsion remains on them. The tyres and the inside/back of the wheels are also still rust free after 15 months in service.
Caveat is is that the loco gets steamed up roughly once a fortnight, be it on a railway or more often, on my HogHill skates. But the fact is with some paint and attention the dreaded steel wheel rust can be averted. [/img]
- Lner fan Sam
- Fireman
- Posts: 491
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2012 7:57 pm
- Location: Sunderland, north east of England
When I was assembling my kit loco frames I noticed on ends of the axles some would have a triangle shape punched in them whilst some would not. Also when assembling I accidentally dropped a pair on a concrete floor. When I picked them up I inspected them, they were still quartered correctly but they now have a chip in them. Still doesn't matter they were going to be replaced anyway with some wheels I was going to machine up.
Also is Peter now selling the wheel inserts chris?
Cheers Sam
Also is Peter now selling the wheel inserts chris?
Cheers Sam
I have had luck getting the wheels tight again with one of these:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLEXCHtWcRc
Not cheap, but works well for a lot of tasks!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLEXCHtWcRc
Not cheap, but works well for a lot of tasks!
Garrett
"Some say that Mamods have problems. Whatever. I view them as opportunities for improvement."
"Some say that Mamods have problems. Whatever. I view them as opportunities for improvement."
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
At £44.11 you are not kidding! However there are cheaper alternatives.Spule 4 wrote:Not cheap, but works well for a lot of tasks!
A quick look through my box of used Mamod wheels shows they used 3 different styles of centre punches. The 3 splined or triangular one (which MSS must have acquired), a 4 splined or square one, and a 6 splined or hexagonal one.
L to R, 3 splined, 4 splined & 6 splined.
Given that the steel axle has to have the ends machined down to fit the Mazak wheels I do not understand why MSS do not just use the plain steel axles with a little Loctite 603 instead. Would give a more reliable wheel set for no real increase in production costs.
It is my understanding that Peter intends on getting some more made to be offered on this Forum. These are a result of his ongoing Mamodification projects.LNER fan sam wrote:Also is Peter now selling the wheel inserts Chris?
I hope you are photographically recording your MSS loco kit build for the enjoyment of others here on the Forum.
Chris Cairns.
- DolwyddelanLightRail
- Driver
- Posts: 2579
- Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Lost
- Superbiker_uk
- Fireman
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:36 am
This is a good subject. I have some observations / comments to add.
First up - here are some very nice Mamodification wheels that I came by. They are cast brass and then machined. The axle is squared off at each end and this fits into a square hole that is half way through the brass wheel. The center of the axle has a fine threaded hole in it. The outside of the wheel the center hole is counter sunk. The brass wheels are held on the axles with small counter sunk allen screws. They came to me green so I just stripped them and repainted them to match my loco.
Any ideas who might have made these? There surely must be more than this set in existance. They sure are nice.
First up - here are some very nice Mamodification wheels that I came by. They are cast brass and then machined. The axle is squared off at each end and this fits into a square hole that is half way through the brass wheel. The center of the axle has a fine threaded hole in it. The outside of the wheel the center hole is counter sunk. The brass wheels are held on the axles with small counter sunk allen screws. They came to me green so I just stripped them and repainted them to match my loco.
Any ideas who might have made these? There surely must be more than this set in existance. They sure are nice.
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
That's the problem with the current members experience. With the exception of the likes of Garrett (Spule 4) current contributors to the Mamod topics have entered the World of Mamods after many of the cottage industry Mamodifications were no longer produced.Superbiker_uk wrote:Any ideas who might have made these?
Found another set of replacement Mamod wheels which are currently for sale on eBay.com. These were originally made by Miniature Steam Railways in Arlington, Texas.
Chris Cairns.
Last edited by Chris Cairns on Fri Jan 04, 2013 7:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Superbiker_uk
- Fireman
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:36 am
Re: PPS type spoked steel wheels - These are not currently available but Roy is having a new batch of these made at the moment. These are due to be available end of Jan/early Feb. I have my eye on some for another 0-6-0 conversion project in the engine shed
Also of interest (hope Roy doesn't mind me posting) is that he is looking to start producing the IP Engineering style ones again. Good news and better than the plain steel ones.
Plain steel vs drilled
Also of interest (hope Roy doesn't mind me posting) is that he is looking to start producing the IP Engineering style ones again. Good news and better than the plain steel ones.
Plain steel vs drilled
- Superbiker_uk
- Fireman
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:36 am
I have one 'good' set of Mamod wheels in my spares box and these are punched slightly differently again. One is shown along side a recently purchased MSS one and you can see the attachment method is similar - drilling out the end of the axle and using a triangular punch to fix.A quick look through my box of used Mamod wheels shows they used 3 different styles of centre punches. The 3 splined or triangular one (which MSS must have acquired), a 4 splined or square one, and a 6 splined or hexagonal one.
- Superbiker_uk
- Fireman
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:36 am
I have quite a lot of old knackered Mamod wheel sets and have tried numerous methods of repair. The most succesful being the use of a sort of woodruff key arrangement by carefully drilling the interface between the axle and the wheel and inserting a piece of brass wire/rod. This proved to be more trouble than it was worth so I have taken to replacing the axle with brass rod of suitable size and making them into rolling stock wheel sets. Just need to make the rolling stock to go with themMamod/MSS Wheels repair or replacement?
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Peter I would say your wheels are just a variation of what the 3 splined/triangular punch can produce, as on some of my wheels the triangular portion has not cut into the Mazak wheels as in my illustrated example above.
One of the problems with the Mazak wheels is the axle holes were not all drilled at right angles hence the wobbly locomotive movement on some locos. I've managed to ream out a set of wheels and Loctite 603'd them to a 5/32" steel axle (an old steering column from a Mamod Roadster). Once I've finished painting them I will be trying them in my Mamod 0-4-2T SL1K refurbishment with a re-gauged IP Eng holed disk set and Roy Wood Models coupling rods.
Chris Cairns.
One of the problems with the Mazak wheels is the axle holes were not all drilled at right angles hence the wobbly locomotive movement on some locos. I've managed to ream out a set of wheels and Loctite 603'd them to a 5/32" steel axle (an old steering column from a Mamod Roadster). Once I've finished painting them I will be trying them in my Mamod 0-4-2T SL1K refurbishment with a re-gauged IP Eng holed disk set and Roy Wood Models coupling rods.
Chris Cairns.
- DolwyddelanLightRail
- Driver
- Posts: 2579
- Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Lost
Depends on the application. If the rust is going to inhibit the performance or life of the loco by any means then yes it is necessary to remove it or to inhibit it from starting, but on the wheels there isn't much to go wrong on them. Rust will be stopped by oil, which is the loco is oiled correctly (i.e. in the relevant parts on the wheel) then there isn't any need to worry about it. The rest of the wheel will eventually get a film of oil from use anyway (unless you clean them with de-greaser after every run) so after a few runs it'll be rather hard for the rust to develope providing you are storing it somewhere that isn't excessively humid.dougrail:78872 wrote:To answer, surely rust on metal is a bad thing?
- Dr. Bond of the DVLR
- Retired Director
- Posts: 4485
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:43 pm
- Location: Suffolk
- Contact:
- dougrail
- Driver
- Posts: 1532
- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:11 pm
- Location: Salopia; on the edge of Arcadia
Yea, Swordbreaker's wheel back-sides have a thin film of oil on them which probably attributes to the cleanliness of them. Locos are stored in my house to boot. Rust gradually eats away the metal though which is the last thing I want, hence why I like to protect my metals. That and plain disc wheels, I dunno, just look weird.DolwyddelanLightRail:78878 wrote:Depends on the application. If the rust is going to inhibit the performance or life of the loco by any means then yes it is necessary to remove it or to inhibit it from starting, but on the wheels there isn't much to go wrong on them. Rust will be stopped by oil, which is the loco is oiled correctly (i.e. in the relevant parts on the wheel) then there isn't any need to worry about it. The rest of the wheel will eventually get a film of oil from use anyway (unless you clean them with de-greaser after every run) so after a few runs it'll be rather hard for the rust to develope providing you are storing it somewhere that isn't excessively humid.dougrail:78872 wrote:To answer, surely rust on metal is a bad thing?
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Not having an iron content Mazak does not rust, however if it is stored in a damp environment adjacent to a box of solid fuel tablets it can suffer from some spectacular chemical corrosion instead.
I'm re-gauging a set of 45mm holed disk IP Eng steel wheels which had obviously been sat in a damp environment. Whilst the front wheels cleaned up OK with a wire brush and some Jenolite, I had to attack the rear wheels with some sandpaper to remove the build up on the back of the wheels (which could have rubbed against the chassis frames affecting performance) followed by a couple of sessions with Jenolite prior to priming & painting.
Whilst Meths is used as a cleaning agent once it has been burnt it leaves a chemical residue which can attack paintwork, etc. particularly if it is the junk purple Meths that is sold by some in the UK.
Chris Cairns.
I'm re-gauging a set of 45mm holed disk IP Eng steel wheels which had obviously been sat in a damp environment. Whilst the front wheels cleaned up OK with a wire brush and some Jenolite, I had to attack the rear wheels with some sandpaper to remove the build up on the back of the wheels (which could have rubbed against the chassis frames affecting performance) followed by a couple of sessions with Jenolite prior to priming & painting.
Whilst Meths is used as a cleaning agent once it has been burnt it leaves a chemical residue which can attack paintwork, etc. particularly if it is the junk purple Meths that is sold by some in the UK.
So does that mean Britomart needs a bit more oiling?DolwyddelanLightRail wrote:Rust will be stopped by oil, which if the loco is oiled correctly
Chris Cairns.
- DolwyddelanLightRail
- Driver
- Posts: 2579
- Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Lost
I wouldn't say so...Chris Cairns:78882 wrote:
So does that mean Britomart needs a bit more oiling?
The top photo was taken about a year ago now, bottom photo taken 5 secs ago. The dark spots is actually rust from the combustion chamber that has fallen of in transit from Wales back to York, which has been slowly disintegrating for a while now, the lighter orange colour is the rust on the wheel itself.
Trust me, I did not buy it just to bang about on crummy Mamod wheels.Chris Cairns:78861 wrote:At £44.11 you are not kidding! However there are cheaper alternatives.Spule 4 wrote:Not cheap, but works well for a lot of tasks!
Chris Cairns.
But, an auto center punch is a great tool to have for starting to drill a hole when you cannot use a pillar drill. It prevents the hole from wiggling about.
Roy had mentioned both the lack of spoked wheels to me and the chance of the "hole-ey" ones being possible a while back when I had the pin failure on JanMod. I do need to get new drivers, but amazingly, the epoxy job on the pin held!Superbiker_uk:78873 wrote:Re: PPS type spoked steel wheels - These are not currently available but Roy is having a new batch of these made at the moment. These are due to be available end of Jan/early Feb. I have my eye on some for another 0-6-0 conversion project in the engine shed
Also of interest (hope Roy doesn't mind me posting) is that he is looking to start producing the IP Engineering style ones again. Good news and better than the plain steel ones.
I think some of us are waiting to see what the options are from you Peter on wheel insterts and other Mamodifications.
Yes, MSRy. Remember them well from back in the day as Chris points out.Chris Cairns:78871 wrote:That's the problem with the current members experience. With the exception of the likes of Garrett (Spule 4) current contributors to the Mamod topics have entered the World of Mamods after many of the cottage industry Mamodifications were no longer produced.Superbiker_uk wrote:Any ideas who might have made these?
Found another set of replacement Mamod wheels which are currently for sale on eBay.com. These were originally made by Miniature Steam Railways in Arlington, Texas.
Chris Cairns.
More needs to be known about this, like how their tender became the influence to the MSS one.
The wheels, like some of the other MSRy parts, have US tinplate origins. They look Lionel or Ives-esque to me.
Honestly, I would love to see some more info on the old Mamodifcation days, maybe in SMT or the like one day?
Garrett
"Some say that Mamods have problems. Whatever. I view them as opportunities for improvement."
"Some say that Mamods have problems. Whatever. I view them as opportunities for improvement."
- Superbiker_uk
- Fireman
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:36 am
For those with an interest I thought I would make it clear regards my intentions with the wheel inserts. First off I am just a hobbyist with a keen interest in Mamodification I only started the process of making parts because of the lack of availability of the 0-6-0 frames and rods that I wanted. So I got myself AutoCAD LT installed and learnt to use it and drew some up. The thought process then went on along the lines of, what about wheel inserts?, what about buffer overlays?, what about different bodywork?....and so it goes on. Problem is you have to learn to walk before you can run and of course you need some time to do things and I have a pretty full work and personal life as it is so the Mamodications whilst never far from my mind don't get as much of a look in as I would like.
With the wheel inserts there was the matter of the design. Here is a picture of an early one but some designs looked 'wrong' without the balance weight.
I then settled on the balance weight design you see on my other wheel insert thread, in this thread (thanks Chris) and below. You need to remember that not all plain disc wheels are the same. The inserts are slightly over sized to suit the chromed DS wheels but with a bit of care can be filed/sanded to fit others.
I am not trying to start or run a business BUT I will be making small numbers of the wheel inserts available for sale (on this forum and on the Mamod forum) at £10 per set of 4 plus UK postage by Royal Mail 1st Class Recorded at £1.85. Outside of the UK post will be a little higher but not much more.
I do not have any of the inserts for sale at the moment. The ones I sold to Chris (shown in this thread) were from the batch I did that I started to use myself and so was happy to supply to him as he requested 2 sets in good faith early on.
I will be getting some more I would say at the end of January. The place I get my laser cutting done are currently doing a couple of other items for me to try out. I will get some more wheel inserts ordered when these part come through.
If anyone with an interest in purchasing a set of inserts (4 inserts) could PM with that would be great so that I can then let you know when the new batch of inserts arrive. Sending me a PM in no way obligates you to purchase. It just gives me an idea of how many to cut. Thanks.
Here is just one of my current projects showing the inserts fitted:
With the wheel inserts there was the matter of the design. Here is a picture of an early one but some designs looked 'wrong' without the balance weight.
I then settled on the balance weight design you see on my other wheel insert thread, in this thread (thanks Chris) and below. You need to remember that not all plain disc wheels are the same. The inserts are slightly over sized to suit the chromed DS wheels but with a bit of care can be filed/sanded to fit others.
I am not trying to start or run a business BUT I will be making small numbers of the wheel inserts available for sale (on this forum and on the Mamod forum) at £10 per set of 4 plus UK postage by Royal Mail 1st Class Recorded at £1.85. Outside of the UK post will be a little higher but not much more.
I do not have any of the inserts for sale at the moment. The ones I sold to Chris (shown in this thread) were from the batch I did that I started to use myself and so was happy to supply to him as he requested 2 sets in good faith early on.
I will be getting some more I would say at the end of January. The place I get my laser cutting done are currently doing a couple of other items for me to try out. I will get some more wheel inserts ordered when these part come through.
If anyone with an interest in purchasing a set of inserts (4 inserts) could PM with that would be great so that I can then let you know when the new batch of inserts arrive. Sending me a PM in no way obligates you to purchase. It just gives me an idea of how many to cut. Thanks.
Here is just one of my current projects showing the inserts fitted:
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests