Garden Railway Forum

Great transformation, Peter
Rik

This shows more clearly the planking added to the cab floor, the tread plate around the edges and the additional row of rivets fixed to the lower edge of the chassis frame...
The next job was to add louvres to the access panels either side and on top of the bonnet. These are also Cambrian Model's detailing parts and make such a difference to an otherwise plain surface...

Brass spectacle plates, from Roundhouse, and clear styrene glazing are an important addition to protect my driver....
And finally, weathering and adding wasp stripes to the radiator. The stripes on the buffer beams are yellow tape but the radiator had to be masked and hand painted. It has turned out much better than the picture appears to show as it is pixilated quite badly and looks rough, I can assure you it is better in real life....
Conclusion: I am really satisfied with the appearance of the model, far more than in its original state. No doubt it is a well built and powerful loco, but it has to be attractive to me to be in my collection. Remember... artist, not engineer!
Any 'Little John' owners will be aware of one problem, the charge socket inside the cab is a real pain in the @rs3 to access and I missed an opportunity to re-site it during the build.



Time for the next project.

Peter Butler wrote: ↑Tue May 16, 2023 11:39 am
Any 'Little John' owners will be aware of one problem, the charge socket inside the cab is a real pain in the @rs3 to access and I missed an opportunity to re-site it during the build.

Has your charger got an "L" shaped plug? That does the trick for mine, reducing the issue to merely awkward!

I also have an RH Hercules of a similar design. That will give up its chassis to the Kerr Stuart diesel I'm working on, but it didn't fit in neatly in its original configuration, so I've turned the chassis round, and now the charging socket and on/off switch are at the front, accessed via the hatch in the sloping bonnet!

You've inspired me though - once the KS is finished I ought to return to my Little John - I'm torn between an industrial finish like yours, or lining it out and making it a bit "posh"...

Thats just so brilliant Peter. It's worthy of the time and effort you have put in. The weathering is superb also, but I have yet to see a radiator cap that is shiny, it just needs a little bit of rust maybe. Or did you not want to spoil what is astounding paint job on the radiator wasp stripes. I think I wouldn't want to as well.

Yet again you inspire us with your builds. It keeps me wanting more of your work, so I can try to achieve something close to what you build.

Thanks for your generous comments Rod, you are always most supportive.
You don't need to visit Specsavers if you picked out such a small detail as the radiator cap. In fact the whole loco has been sprayed with a matt lacquer from 'Games Workshop' which gives a beautiful, even finish. The cap hasn't been given a rusty look as it probably would have been opened quite frequently with an oily rag? That's my excuse anyway! (In truth, that level of detail wouldn't occur to me)
I also failed to mention the grey colour is just Halfords Primer, which has altered slightly under the clear lacquer.

Looks fantastic. nice restrained weathering and the chequer plate makes all the difference. fantastic

Thanks Jake, glad you approve!
Just think, you are 'just around the corner' from me, in Australian terms. If you have a day off in your diary, just drop me a note and pay me a visit.

Sure I spotted it in a post somewhere, but 'I canna find it, Captain!' :
Where do you source the chequer-plate from, please?

Thanks,
Phil.P

Phil, I searched all over for chequer plate and failed miserably... it was only when I saw it referred to as TREAD PLATE that I discovered it is made by Slaters and available from 'Peters Spares .... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324597724796?
I use the one shown, 0450 single tread plate, which looks perfectly well on my stock.

Peter, thank you!
A case of speaking the right language.


Phil.P

Peter Butler wrote: ↑Thu May 18, 2023 8:42 pm Thanks Jake, glad you approve!
Just think, you are 'just around the corner' from me, in Australian terms. If you have a day off in your diary, just drop me a note and pay me a visit.

The thought did cross my mind! I really should have been better organised and tried to meet a few forum members around the traps but unfortunately I ran out of time. In Kilmarnock tonight (seeing the Andrew Barclay works) then up to Loch ness over the next few days before coming back down the East coast finishing up at the Apedale at war event. Hopefully next time I'm over I can have a look around. I check your thread for posts daily its always an inspiration

Thanks Jake... so much to see, so little time. You seem to have a busy schedule so there's always another opportunity. Enjoy every moment of your trip.

I never really see these RH diesels being modded, nice work.

It took me a month, but I think I finally read the whole thing! I think I'll just go have a lie down...

drewzero1 wrote: ↑Sun May 28, 2023 5:37 am It took me a month, but I think I finally read the whole thing! I think I'll just go have a lie down...

Sweet dreams..... I might set a test soon.

Peter Butler wrote: ↑Sun May 28, 2023 10:46 am

drewzero1 wrote: ↑Sun May 28, 2023 5:37 am It took me a month, but I think I finally read the whole thing! I think I'll just go have a lie down...

Sweet dreams..... I might set a test soon.

Blooming heck Peter, we would take another month looking for the answers because there is so much to of your brilliant thread to read.

I've recently celebrated another birthday, but today I feel as though I have had one more..... a special delivery this morning brought my 'Porterhouse L&B Crane' safely to my door. I stress 'safely' due to the immense care which went into the packaging....
This is a superbly detailed model and is not only beautifully crafted but fully operational too! The moving parts are strong and well designed. It comes pre-assembled with only the crane to attach to the flat truck to finish off with the pivot bolt (supplied) to fit with the Allen Key, also included too!
It is a large model and I need to make some modifications to enable it to be used on my line. Already I have discovered areas where it does not conform to my loading gauge, but I have worked out how to fix the issues, as will be explained next time.

Happy Belated Birthday Peter. Sorry I missed it.
That really does look a very nice piece of kit. I presume you’re going to weather it to your usual high standard. Looking forward to more on it

Peter Butler wrote: ↑Tue May 30, 2023 3:56 pm I've recently celebrated another birthday, but today I feel as though I have had one more..... a special delivery this morning brought my 'Porterhouse L&B Crane' safely to my door. I stress 'safely' due to the immense care which went into the packaging....

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This is a superbly detailed model and is not only beautifully crafted but fully operational too! The moving parts are strong and well designed. It comes pre-assembled with only the crane to attach to the flat truck to finish off with the pivot bolt (supplied) to fit with the Allen Key, also included too!
It is a large model and I need to make some modifications to enable it to be used on my line. Already I have discovered areas where it does not conform to my loading gauge, but I have worked out how to fix the issues, as will be explained next time.

Glad you happy with the crane Peter.
Thank you for the kind words.
We look forward to seeing it in service.
Best wishes
Porterhouse Models

The width of the flat-bed, according to my scale rule, is 6' 8", which would negotiate my track with no problem. The trouble seems to be the screw-jacks, which are extended beyond that up to 8 feet overall, even when folded in!
So.... what to do?
Remove the jacks by drilling out the plastic hinge-pins, then reduce the width of the flat beds of both trucks .....
Cut away the blocks underneath the bed which support the jack pivots...
Re-attach the pivots set in as far as the chassis so that the jacks can now be stowed within the width of the bed...
Then fit a Plastikard angle surround to protect the timber floor and disguise the cut plank edges....

That is enough surgery for day one, now I'm going to glue on a few hundred rivet heads before bed.