Garden Railway Forum

The trackwork has now all been laid and a couple of test trains have been run.

Ballasting will be done after I've had a couple of running sessions in case a bit of tweaking is needed.

Rik

That's come together very quickly and looks great in your sunshine!

And here's a video showing the first train to run on the line


Rik

Wonderful stuff Rik, always something new to look forward to. We do love our toys!

Peter Butler wrote: ↑Fri Apr 28, 2023 9:14 am Wonderful stuff Rik, always something new to look forward to. We do love our toys!

Indeed we do!
That gatehouse looks as if it has been made from kids' building blocks at present, but it will improve .....

Rik

Now done a bit more work on the gatehouse. I went to my local builders' merchant and bought two more Thermalite blocks. Give him his due, the chap behind the counter didn't bat an eyelid and even loaded them into the boot of my car.


I've smoothed down the outer surfaces (a couple of hours' work with a rasp) and made a start on some of the detailing. It will take a while yet but it's beginning to take shape.

Such a contrast to normal model making where we start with nothing and gradually build it up. Working with Thermalite blocks is the opposite - start with a big chunk of something and whittle away at it. A bit messy but very satisfying.

Rik
BTW - this is what inspired the build - Peckforton Castle Gatehouse

Trying to decide how to join the blocks. I've got instant grab adhesive which will probably do the job but I'm going to need some gap filling which can then be carved and filed - so, I'm wondering whether a weak mortar mix might be better (ie a greater proportion of sand to cement than usual).

Any thoughts?

Rik

ge_rik wrote: ↑Fri Apr 28, 2023 7:46 pm A bit messy but very satisfying.

Yes, I remember much the same thing when I did my bridge.

ge_rik wrote: ↑Fri Apr 28, 2023 7:57 pm Trying to decide how to join the blocks. I've got instant grab adhesive which will probably do the job but I'm going to need some gap filling which can then be carved and filed - so, I'm wondering whether a weak mortar mix might be better (ie a greater proportion of sand to cement than usual).

Any thoughts?

Rik

I have used waterproof tile adhesive (as used in swimming pools) to cement porous items together. Once set, a screed of the same could be applied and stonework can be scribed into the soft surface... Simpler than dry carving! A little SBR mixed in adds flexibility and additional waterproofing.

Peter Butler wrote: ↑Fri Apr 28, 2023 8:09 pm

ge_rik wrote: ↑Fri Apr 28, 2023 7:57 pm Trying to decide how to join the blocks. I've got instant grab adhesive which will probably do the job but I'm going to need some gap filling which can then be carved and filed - so, I'm wondering whether a weak mortar mix might be better (ie a greater proportion of sand to cement than usual).

Any thoughts?

Rik

I have used waterproof tile adhesive (as used in swimming pools) to cement porous items together. Once set, a screed of the same could be applied and stonework can be scribed into the soft surface... Simpler than dry carving! A little SBR mixed in adds flexibility and additional waterproofing.

I've had two experiences in this area:
One is my aforementioned bridge, which if you can remember that long back, broke whilst I was carving it and I had to glue a bit of the parapet back on, and I also glued the two halves of the bridge together which had been carved from two blocks because one wasn't wide enough. I used Everbuild "Stixall" adhesive to glue the faces then 'grouted' with a slurry of block dust and SBR and then pressed neat dust onto the final surface because the SBR darkens it. The joints and repair seem to have held up for the several years it has been in situ.

The other thing is that practically my first scenic construction, was a pair of tunnel mouths. I used an electric tile saw to cut roughly rectangular limestone blocks which I then glued to an old roofing slate using waterproof tile cement and grouted with more of the same tile cement. They have both been in situ for over ten years and not one block has dropped off yet, much to my surprise!

Thanks chaps.
I did wonder about tile cement. I might even have some left after doing the kitchen tiling. It is waterproof but not sure if it's swimming pool standard.

I like the idea of grouting with the dust from filing the blocks. There's certainly plenty to use. I might try mixing it with cement to see if that helps retain its colour.

I did consider using plaster. But that might not be as weatherproof as the other options.

Rik

ge_rik wrote: ↑Sat Apr 29, 2023 6:54 am
I did wonder about tile cement. I might even have some left after doing the kitchen tiling. It is waterproof but not sure if it's swimming pool standard.

Mine was only left over from bathroom tiling, nothing exotic.

Don't use plaster!

It will hold moisture, and once it gets frosted, it just crumbles..

Phil.P

I would suggest using CT1 to hold it together and if it needs extra strength there is Power Grab and Bond but you need to make that spot on not suitable for adjusting can be used to stones to a wall. CT1 is fine for that job and comes in several colours https://www.ct1.com/our-products/ct1/.

very useful stuff

Don

Thanks chaps. I'll give CT1 a try

Rik

Always a treat to see really unique structures.