Garden Railway Forum

I just got a round house Jennie. Its shipping now cant wait for it. A few questions Frist do i need a pressure gauge? the instructoions say to load up a heavy car for the frist run since it like to jump on the frist runs. I was hoping to get a whistle from DJB engineering Will i need a second servo to activate this whistle? Besides throttle what else should i make rc? What track to they like brass rails?

Hi.

Sorry, I don't know the answers you are looking for but a big welcome to the forum. I am sure someone will be along shortly to answer any questions you may have

Not sure you NEED a pressure gauge, and I am sure the instructions will inform how to run without, but I would consider one. I have a DJB whistle on my fowler, as the pressure is taken of the regulator pipework, I had DJB fit it for me, it does need a servo, and in theory should be connected to a "moving" control (like the regulator) as opposed to a straight "on/off" control. Sorry about lack of technical terms, still learning about RC

Hello!

I think you'll manage fine without a pressure gauge. They're nice to have, and can help understand what's going on with your loco, but you get used to that anyway. My Bertie doesn't have one, and the one on my Konrad has seized up, but both still run fine...

I don't know about brass rails specifically, but I don't think they'll be a problem, your loco should run on pretty much anything.

Happy steaming - we'd love to see some photos of your loco in action!

Andrew

Welcome to the world of garden rail modelling. The most common track used is made by Peco (SM32 or G45 - 32mm = 2foot gauge at 16mm , whilst 45mm is 3foot gauge approx. ) and is made from nickel silver rail and uv proof plastic simulated wooden sleepers. The rail tarnishes outdoors to a realistic colour. Othe rmanufacturers use stainless steel, brass or nickel silver. You pays your money and takes your pick.

Do i need to weigh the engine down for the first few runs? The instructions say it might jump

can i use any lgb car behind the jennie?

vette wrote: ↑Fri Mar 18, 2022 2:43 pm Do i need to weigh the engine down for the first few runs? The instructions say it might jump

I wonder whether maybe the instructions just mean that the engine might stop and start a little while it is still new and a bit stiff, rather than that it will jump off the rails? Roundhouse engines are very well made, I don't think you will have that problem...

vette wrote: ↑Fri Mar 18, 2022 2:57 pm can i use any lgb car behind the jennie?

Yes, definitely. The only small problem you'll probably have is that the couplings won't match, but a dime bent piece of wire (like a paperclip) will solve that.

Good luck!

Andrew wrote: ↑Fri Mar 18, 2022 5:17 pm

vette wrote: ↑Fri Mar 18, 2022 2:43 pm Do i need to weigh the engine down for the first few runs? The instructions say it might jump

I wonder whether maybe the instructions just mean that the engine might stop and start a little while it is still new and a bit stiff, rather than that it will jump off the rails? Roundhouse engines are very well made, I don't think you will have that problem...

OK, I take that back! I've just downloaded the instructions (https://www.roundhouse-eng.com/pdf/loco ... jennie.pdf) , and they do indeed advise pulling a heavy wagon for the first five minutes - I've never seen that before!

Pressure gauge and the water top up kit with sight glass would be excellent upgrade items when your train fund allows the purchase. I added both to my Bertie back when I had her, along with the brass chimney cap. I have moved up with a pair of Roundhouse Billy class O&K locomotives, one of them being a Riverdale Elke coal fired version. You really cannot go wrong with anything from Roundhouse. Yes a heavier load helps temper the speed a bit by making the engine work.

Should i use distilled water? for the boiler?

vette wrote: ↑Tue Mar 22, 2022 2:27 am Should i use distilled water? for the boiler?

Water should be distilled do NOT use de-ionized water this can be harmful to your boiler.

Dose any one have a picture on how you hook up the linkage for the whistle? To run this engine in can i just put it up on wood blocks and run it for 5 mins?

vette wrote: ↑Fri Mar 25, 2022 3:05 am Dose any one have a picture on how you hook up the linkage for the whistle? To run this engine in can i just put it up on wood blocks and run it for 5 mins?

If you visit the DJB engineering website http://www.djbengineering.co.uk/whistle-bangham.shtml you will get further information. As for running in, this takes more than 5 minutes. My Fowler ran over 3 hours before I was content it was run it - what does your literature say.

Is cpac water good enough to use for distilled. Or would laboratory grade distilled work ? I read on rh website that some distilled isnt really distilled.

Not sure what cpac water is, I use water out of a dehumidifier, as said it must be dehumidified and NOT deionized water, I also filter my water before use usingc offee filter paper.

It's "CPAP" water, (continuous positive airway pressure). I don't think there's much difference in the context of CPAP machines between de-ionized and distilled water. The thing is, there is a lot of misconception regarding the two, which I am too lazy to get into, and will only start a row anyway. Here is what I would do: use de-ionized water to your heart's content. Mix it with a tiny bit of regular tap-water to reduce its corrosive effect. It won't hurt the copper the Roundhouse boiler is made of, so the worst thing it can do is *maybe* weaken a solder joint over a very, very long time. But even then, it would probably take millennia to do so if you just empty your boiler when you're done playing with the engine and store it with the filler cap unscrewed so it can dry out in there.

If you'll pardon the expression, I think a lot of the hand-wringing over de-ionized water vs. distilled is picking fly-sh!t out of pepper.

What's everyone fuel of chocie for the burner in the states?

Not quite the states, but here in Canada we've basically two options:
1: The pure butane cannisters. I often find these from smaller, often Asian owned markets. They use a non-threaded fitting which makes finding an adapter to fit our locos a bit tricky, but they're out there. The cannister can fit directly to a Roundhouse gas tank, providing there's enough clearance around the filler on the loco to get the cannister in there:

https://www.amazon.com/GasOne-Butane-Fu ... th=1&psc=1

2: Mixed camping gas cannisters. Slightly more expensive, but more widely available, and a standard filler adapter will fit. The isobutane and mixed gasses are nice to have for those that run their locos in colder conditions:

https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4010-931/ ... lour=NOC02