Garden Railway Forum

You have a good eye for colour. Max

To my mind it looks pretty much perfect. But then, as you know, I'm very much a a student of the " as long as it looks right then it is right" school.


Rik

Hi all.
Just a tip from me. When buying a rattle can from your local car parts dealer, always flip off the cap and check that it has not been used and then not inverted to clear the nozzle. My thoughts are of unscrupulous modellers asking to take a can outside to check colour in daylight and having a little spray. Deciding it is not right, taking it back in to the shop and putting it back on the shelf with the distinct possibility of paint now blocking the nozzle.
Just a thought.
David.

River Lin wrote: ↑Mon May 17, 2021 11:10 pm Hi all.
Just a tip from me. When buying a rattle can from your local car parts dealer, always flip off the cap and check that it has not been used and then not inverted to clear the nozzle. My thoughts are of unscrupulous modellers asking to take a can outside to check colour in daylight and having a little spray. Deciding it is not right, taking it back in to the shop and putting it back on the shelf with the distinct possibility of paint now blocking the nozzle.
Just a thought.
David.

Although a valid point Hycote, which is the brand I use, now has security seals around the cap to prevent the cap being removed, an issue they obviously also identified.

The rattle cans I purchased from Halfords all had security seals which were intact.

I have noticed that the move to rattle can paint suppliers applying tape to lids seems to have started with the move away from caps that required the twist of a screwdriver blade to remove - i.e. a secure self sealing system. In over 45 years of buying rattle cans, primers, colour coats and lacquers (you can get through a lot in the model racing car world) I cannot remember encountering a "pre-used" can at any time. Had a few with faults but no evidence of prior use. While I am sure there might be instances I think the reason is more to ensure the cap remains secured to the body, given how they are stored and handled and the now prevalent practice of using caps without a built in securing devise. Ruined stock and customers' clothing cleaning and replacement bills or worse comes to mind. But with the practice now of using "generic" colour markers rather that the actual colour sprayed on the cap there is a bit of a temptation now. Those Halfords tapes are very easy to remove and replace.

Doing colour tests, a little tip - Always use the suggested primer too. It can affect the final colour's appearance quite markedly, as can a lacquer coat. Especially if the the paint tint is not as opaque as it might be. Also check in the natural light outside. I came unstuck on a brace of GRS modern WHR saloons. Indoors it all look great, get it outdoors and that nice dark maroon Toyota Red 3E5 seems to be a nicer shade of red. Hmm, what to do - I've got a couple of Bowaters modern WHR cars to do, a service car and a semi open. Do I go for the old get out, "they have been in service for a while" and just correct on the new ones, or match, or even a total respray. Then again perhaps I should have emailed the WHR and asked them what they used first. Max

I managed to find a break in the rain over the weekend and made a start on painting the cab ends. The first coat has highlighted some gaps that will require more filler, it’ll take a few more coats of primer to get a decent finish I think.

I managed to finish the bogies so can now continue with fitting the gear box and motors. I decided to use a semi gloss finish, aiming for a ‘factory fresh’ finish.


The 3D printed parts have come out ok after a bit of filler, several coats of primer and a couple of top coats.

For my IP engineering Railcar, I applied a coat (or two) of sanding sealer by hand on the wooden components, I found this filled the grain nicely, whilst leaving the detail.

I've now completed the bogies and they're ready to be fitted to the chassis once I've finished painting it.

Painting the chassis is going well so far.

The finish on those bogies looks to be flawless. Can't wait to see the completed model.

Rik

You've achieved wonders with the bogies, considering the state of some of the printed items in the beginning, and the chassis is looking good too.

With some effort managed to get the roofs fitted and primed. The chassis painting is finished bar lacquer. Still a little tidying up on the bodies required before painting (which I'm not looking forward to!) then I can fit the electrics! Shame I don't have a layout to test this on...

Hi George.
When you fit the electrics are you going for the full forward/reverse lighting setup. It entails a lot of wiring and led fitting but the effort is well rewarded. I used the electronics supplied by Yatton including the sound card option. If you get into difficulty i found John at Yatton to be a very helpful chap to talk to. I had trouble with my transmitter so he asked me to send it back to him and he returned it to me fixed within the week.
David.

River Lin wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 4:28 pm Hi George.
When you fit the electrics are you going for the full forward/reverse lighting setup. It entails a lot of wiring and led fitting but the effort is well rewarded. I used the electronics supplied by Yatton including the sound card option. If you get into difficulty i found John at Yatton to be a very helpful chap to talk to. I had trouble with my transmitter so he asked me to send it back to him and he returned it to me fixed within the week.
David.

I am indeed! I've sourced a separate sound card but have the Yatton receiver & transmitter as the main electronics 'hub'. Phil from RC trains is putting together a wiring loom for me that will hopefully simplify some of the wiring requirements!

Hi George.
Here is my 'VoF' minus a few body details. Although 4 motors were included with the kit I only fitted 1 in each bogie as I considered this was more than enough power for my limited stock. I can easily fit the other 2 later if necessary.
David.

Both bodies masked up and ready for painting.




I've now finished one side, looking at photos of the locomotive from above it seems the roof is part green part silver - so I've tried to replicate that. I've almost finished the other side now too. I'm waiting on nameplates as well as finding some welsh dragon decals which I'll need to fit before giving the paintwork a coat of lacquer, then I can fit the windows + frames. I need to fit the railings too but decided they'd be easier to paint and fit separately from painting the front in yellow.

Coming on nicely. Fox has dragons in different sizes. I got mine from there and it's just about a perfect fit. I bought the 7 mm scale https://www.fox-transfers.co.uk/catalog ... /?q=Dragon

georgesheppard wrote: ↑Sun Jun 13, 2021 9:59 pm... looking at photos of the locomotive from above it seems the roof is part green part silver ...

The silver section is a new thing, the roof used to be all green.