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IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 12:21 pm
by Jimmyb
I have just purchased the IP Engineering Rail Bus, and it would seem that it is 3 volt power. First if anybody has any general advice comments these would welcome -thanks
. However the real reason for the post is remote control, and sound. Can anybody recommend an R/C and sound card for this low voltage, many thanks in anticipation
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 12:59 pm
by -steves-
Personally I would just swap the motor out for an equivalent size but with a higher voltage, MFA Como will do something.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 1:44 pm
by Jimmyb
-steves- wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 12:59 pm
Personally I would just swap the motor out for an equivalent size but with a higher voltage, MFA Como will do something.
Steve, certainly sounds like a plan, I will investigate once it arrives
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 2:47 pm
by -steves-
Jimmyb wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 1:44 pm
-steves- wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 12:59 pm
Personally I would just swap the motor out for an equivalent size but with a higher voltage, MFA Como will do something.
Steve, certainly sounds like a plan, I will investigate once it arrives
I would guess it's going to be a 280 size motor. From MFA you can get as 12v-24v, which happily runs around 12v without issue )that's what I generally use) or you can also get a 3v-6v in the same size. If its a 285 size then you can get a 6v-15v.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 3:15 pm
by Jimmyb
-steves- wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 2:47 pm
Jimmyb wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 1:44 pm
-steves- wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 12:59 pm
Personally I would just swap the motor out for an equivalent size but with a higher voltage, MFA Como will do something.
Steve, certainly sounds like a plan, I will investigate once it arrives
I would guess it's going to be a 280 size motor. From MFA you can get as 12v-24v, which happily runs around 12v without issue )that's what I generally use) or you can also get a 3v-6v in the same size. If its a 285 size then you can get a 6v-15v.
Steve the spec indeed does say 280, so a 12 v - 24 v replacement motor is about £3.00
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 3:20 pm
by -steves-
Jimmyb wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 3:15 pm
Steve the spec indeed does say 280, so a 12 v - 24 v replacement motor is about £3.00
See, awesome isn't it, I love forums for the sharing of information.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 6:57 pm
by Phil.P
As has been said, you can swap the motor for a higher voltage model.
I guess it probably comes with a 2 x AA battery holder? So you should be able to get a pair of 14500 Li-ion cells in the space that would have taken.
You may be able to squirrel - away a third cell, under the chassis somewhere?
Phil. P
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 8:31 am
by Jimmyb
Phil.P wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 6:57 pm
As has been said, you can swap the motor for a higher voltage model.
I guess it probably comes with a 2 x AA battery holder? So you should be able to get a pair of 14500 Li-ion cells in the space that would have taken.
You may be able to squirrel - away a third cell, under the chassis somewhere?
Phil. P
I will await and see what arrives, but I am sure I will be able to fit Lithium batteries somewhere, and I will kept the forum updated on progress
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 9:39 am
by ge_rik
Most soundcards run happily off two li ion cells, so you could always go for a 6-12v motor.
Rik
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 10:21 am
by -steves-
ge_rik wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 9:39 am
Most soundcards run happily off two li ion cells, so you could always go for a 6-12v motor.
Rik
It may be possible to get a 6v-12c 280 size motor, but I know MFA Como don't do one in that size. They do a
1.5v to 3v
3v - 6v
12v -24v
For some reason they miss this important size out. However if you can get away with a slightly bigger motor you can use the 285 size which does come in a 6v-15v option. Strange but there you go, lol
Might be worth looking for a supplier of a 280 motor that comes in 6v - 12v? In fact, I just found one really quickly on Ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/26002517264, there are loads of suppliers though, this is just one example.
This is the cheapest I could find but is from China so if urgent it might not be any good, might get a few myself though
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mabuchi-RC-2 ... 1195.m1851
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 12:33 pm
by ge_rik
They look like a good find, Steve.
Rik
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 1:17 pm
by philipy
Just be careful, the Mabuchi one from China appears to be a lower voltage range 5.0 - 9.6v
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mabuchi-RC-2 ... 1195.m1851
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 2:03 pm
by -steves-
Indeed, but is more than enough for a 2s li-ion
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2021 9:18 am
by Jimmyb
The kit has arrived, and all the parts seem in order. The motor is unmarked, but meets the physical size of a 280, so another trawl of the internet. I found a number of "branded" motors marked up with the voltage details and indeed 6 - 12v but these were all from Asia, cheap around £4.00 when p&p was added, however, I decided that the UK one, even though unmarked could be more cost effective at £4.50, especially as the imported ones could attract £8 - £12 courier fee, order so lets see what happens
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2021 12:50 pm
by Jimmyb
So below is my Kit of Parts for the Railbus, and the instructions they look very comprehensive.
I have a question for builders of these "wooden" kits, the instructions talk about using superglue or two-part epoxy, I would have though a good water proof PVA, thoughts please:
- IPE-Railbus-Kit-of-Parts.jpg (294.99 KiB) Viewed 7621 times
I will keep you updated, but only significant photos, but a full account will be on my blog, which I will link to.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2021 2:18 pm
by philipy
Jimmyb wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 12:50 pm
I have a question for builders of these "wooden" kits, the instructions talk about using superglue or two-part epoxy, I would have though a good water proof PVA, thoughts please:
I've never actually built one although i do have a couple in stock to do and PVA would be my first thought. OTOH, superglue does set faster, IF you can keep it under control ( something I always find difficult).
Peter B is the expert with mdf kits.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2021 2:57 pm
by Peter Butler
philipy wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 2:18 pm
Jimmyb wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 12:50 pm
I have a question for builders of these "wooden" kits, the instructions talk about using superglue or two-part epoxy, I would have though a good water proof PVA, thoughts please.
Peter B is the expert with mdf kits.
Expert.... no, experienced..... yes!
Like all simple questions there are numerous possible answers. I am a strong supporter of PVA adhesive and whenever I can I do prefer to use it. True it takes longer to set and needs to be held in position whist drying, it gives a stronger joint over its entire contact surface and is less likely to fracture if impacted. It may also help to dull the sound of hollow vehicles. I see no advantage in using waterproof PVA unless you are planning to completely seal your model both inside and out. MDF and thin plywood may be effected in humid conditions so I never use my stock in the rain and always store them in boxes.
Superglue does work very well on wooden kits and I frequently use it on kits from Jerry Irwin following his instructions on-line. It makes for quick and strong joints where mortise and tenon type fixings are located. It is also easy to remove excess adhesive by simply wiping away. A combination of the two adhesives is often the most suitable method but may take some experience to identify where to use either one.
I would not choose to use epoxy adhesive on wooden kits.
Useful tips .... do NOT use superglue to attach window glazing.
If painting overlays separately first, use 'Canopy Adhesive' to attach to the body panels.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2021 3:32 pm
by Phil.P
Can I ask why Canopy Adhesive for overlays?
Is it because the items are both painted?
Thanks,
PhilP.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2021 3:49 pm
by Jimmyb
Peter Butler wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 2:57 pm
philipy wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 2:18 pm
Jimmyb wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 12:50 pm
I have a question for builders of these "wooden" kits, the instructions talk about using superglue or two-part epoxy, I would have though a good water proof PVA, thoughts please.
Peter B is the expert with mdf kits.
Expert.... no, experienced..... yes!
Like all simple questions there are numerous possible answers. I am a strong supporter of PVA adhesive and whenever I can I do prefer to use it. True it takes longer to set and needs to be held in position whist drying, it gives a stronger joint over its entire contact surface and is less likely to fracture if impacted. It may also help to dull the sound of hollow vehicles. I see no advantage in using waterproof PVA unless you are planning to completely seal your model both inside and out. MDF and thin plywood may be effected in humid conditions so I never use my stock in the rain and always store them in boxes.
Superglue does work very well on wooden kits and I frequently use it on kits from Jerry Irwin following his instructions on-line. It makes for quick and strong joints where mortise and tenon type fixings are located. It is also easy to remove excess adhesive by simply wiping away. A combination of the two adhesives is often the most suitable method but may take some experience to identify where to use either one.
I would not choose to use epoxy adhesive on wooden kits.
Useful tips .... do NOT use superglue to attach window glazing.
If painting overlays separately first, use 'Canopy Adhesive' to attach to the body panels.
Philip and Peter, many thanks, I will stick (pun wasn't intended) with PVA, I have some craft PVA that has worked well, and because of the relatively slow setting it gives my fat fingers time to "adjust" and clamp the work.
Phil.P wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 3:32 pm
Can I ask why Canopy Adhesive for overlays?
Is it because the items are both painted?
Thanks,
PhilP.
Phil.P I think this is because it "fogs" the overlay, but I could be mistaken.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2021 4:03 pm
by Peter Butler
Canopy adhesive is described as a.... 'flexible, clear, fast drying adhesive designed to bond plastics to almost anything'.
To my way of thinking, 'almost anything' incudes MDF or ply overlays when applied to a sealed or painted, smooth surface, plastic or not. I use it frequently, and it works.
It allows sufficient time to apply adhesive to even the largest overlays before drying, any excess can be removed with a damp cloth when wet, or by rubbing when dry, without leaving any residue.
If superglue is used for overlays, any excess cannot be removed without damaging and permanently marking painted surfaces.