New Millie
Re: New Millie
Sounds like it to me, our oscillator locomotives do something similar when they have water in the cylinders.
Try running the locomotive again but this time leave the regulator open when you warm up, close it when it starts to move off. One of our club members does this and I've never seen it prime on him.
Try running the locomotive again but this time leave the regulator open when you warm up, close it when it starts to move off. One of our club members does this and I've never seen it prime on him.
Re: New Millie
Cheers - I'll give that a go - what about oiling the pistons - do I do them with the external oil or do I leave the steam oil to lubricate them?
Thanks
Mark
Thanks
Mark
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: New Millie
Our oldest locomotive is a 21 year old Lady Anne. We've never externally lubricated the pistons, relying on the steam oil only.
Still going with no new parts!
Still going with no new parts!
- tom_tom_go
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Re: New Millie
Don't get too concerned with oilling every time as your loco is not doing constant laps at a fast pace. Too much oil just attracts hair and dirt.
- artfull dodger
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Re: New Millie
I only externaly oil the piston and valve shafts where they pass thru the glands if the model has sat unused for several months. Otherwise I just let the steam oil take care of business. Sounds like she was a bit over filled. If and when you put the water glass option on her, you only fill up to 3/4 of the glass, this allow room for the water to expand as it heats to a boil. When you like this feature, you fill the boiler full, then suck off 30ml of water to allow space for expansion and steam to form. That being said, the water top up system with sight glass is one of the best options you can add. And some water and oily stuff from the piston glands is normal when clearing the usual condensation of steam back to water in cold cylinders. How much is dependant on how cold the weather and thus the model is. You will also want to flush the side rods, and slip eccentrics every couple of runs, espically when running outdoor or on ground level lines. Oil naturaly attracts dirt and grit, which will wear bearings and eccentrics fast. The previous owner of my Sammie was using sand on the oily track for traction, this wore the coupling rods and eccentrics. I flush the lower half of my models in my little bench top parts washing tank, allow to drip dry over night, then relubricate the next day. The side rods are easy to replace when worn, the eccentrics will need a trip back to Roundhouse. Keep on steaming her, RH models only get better with use! Mike
here is my Sammie's backhead with all the extra options fitted.
here is my Sammie's backhead with all the extra options fitted.
Silly NT's.....I have Asperger's Syndrome!
Re: New Millie
Thanks -yes my end to end layout needs careful slow driving with the gradients - so you are spot on with your observation - we are now running end to end which is great and each run needs a little less play on the regulator - 2 more runs todaytom_tom_go wrote: ↑Sat Apr 15, 2017 1:42 pm Don't get too concerned with oilling every time as your loco is not doing constant laps at a fast pace. Too much oil just attracts hair and dirt.
Where did I put that uncoupler?
- dougrail
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Re: New Millie
RE Priming / unwillingness to go before bursting into life: new loco, it will do that. My Bertie does the same. Very sprightly little engine once going. Make sure you aren't filling the water to the top and if you are, take out 40ml to allow steam room in the boiler.
My now runin slip eccentric Lady Anne (yes, I had a new slipex LA in 2015...long story) did the same but once going runs very smoothly and like a cat on fire.
My now runin slip eccentric Lady Anne (yes, I had a new slipex LA in 2015...long story) did the same but once going runs very smoothly and like a cat on fire.
Re: New Millie
Another quick query - after a few more runs (which have been great) the regulator is becoming a little slack - guess the various nuts and bolts are bedding in - to tighten it up, do I need to alter the nut just in front on the regulator - is there a right way? and how tight does it need to be? the regulator seems to 'move out' on the screw (sorry for the description - I'm not an engineer!)
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: New Millie
I think that the Millie is a cracking little engine. In a way it is like going back 30 years to the very first mamods (okay, I know that a Millie will run great from the box). But what you have is a nice simple engine that is just crying out to be personalised and spived up a bit. Loads of things to bolt on and adapt as and when. A wonderful opportunity to make something unique.
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
Re: New Millie
Hallo Mark,
Your problem with the regulator is not really a problem.
As I understud the retainer nut is moving during the throttel is changed from closed to open, following it becomes unsealed.
Tighten the scrab nut with the fingers until she remains during moving the throttle. It even helps to avoid this by lubrificate the small O-ring with vaseline. For this You have to unscrew the nut and the throttle than You see the red 0-ring.
The valve is from the beginning not 100% steam proof to the cyliders. This will become better with the time or you seat it in.
In Germany I do this with toothpaste on the sealing face beneath a unamusing Football Play. After 2 half times open and close it shoud be steamproof.
But i did need this technik only with my RC valve not with the manual one.
Similar it was with my Darjeeling but not so strong, so i spared the action toothpaste!
All works on this valve and other parts on the loko with much care please and without great power! Otherwise You get it damaged and need an new one.
Best regards
Frederic
Your problem with the regulator is not really a problem.
As I understud the retainer nut is moving during the throttel is changed from closed to open, following it becomes unsealed.
Tighten the scrab nut with the fingers until she remains during moving the throttle. It even helps to avoid this by lubrificate the small O-ring with vaseline. For this You have to unscrew the nut and the throttle than You see the red 0-ring.
The valve is from the beginning not 100% steam proof to the cyliders. This will become better with the time or you seat it in.
In Germany I do this with toothpaste on the sealing face beneath a unamusing Football Play. After 2 half times open and close it shoud be steamproof.
But i did need this technik only with my RC valve not with the manual one.
Similar it was with my Darjeeling but not so strong, so i spared the action toothpaste!
All works on this valve and other parts on the loko with much care please and without great power! Otherwise You get it damaged and need an new one.
Best regards
Frederic
Re: New Millie
There is a huge discussion about how tight is tight on nuts and bolts. My colleague who has 2 hands like coal shovels and plays rugby on semi-proffesional level has another "tight" then I do.
As with every "master", you only become one by making mistakes. Better do the mistakes that way that you can undo the damage, thus gently tighten the nut first. If it comes loose in a short while, put it a little bit tighter the next time, just untill it only comes loose in about every few months, eventually it will stick on it's place anyway. You only need to deform the o-ring that much that it touches the surface of the regulatoraxle to seal it off. Vaseline indeed will help it "glide" better.
Better a few times retightening than overtighten it and get the internal organs damaged. Only use tools on joints between pipework (so called unions) and if you use tools, keep them between your finger and thumb, so it can slip easily when it's tight. If you keep it in your fist, like a 3/4" spanner, you can't "feel" when its thight. That way you will tear up the thread and that is a difficult damage to repair.
It's like judging in advance how much force you probably need to get it fixed. If you use your fingers, the force is in your wrist. Gentle, subtile, agile, but not so strong. If you use your fist, the force is in your upper arm, more monkey like.
As with every "master", you only become one by making mistakes. Better do the mistakes that way that you can undo the damage, thus gently tighten the nut first. If it comes loose in a short while, put it a little bit tighter the next time, just untill it only comes loose in about every few months, eventually it will stick on it's place anyway. You only need to deform the o-ring that much that it touches the surface of the regulatoraxle to seal it off. Vaseline indeed will help it "glide" better.
Better a few times retightening than overtighten it and get the internal organs damaged. Only use tools on joints between pipework (so called unions) and if you use tools, keep them between your finger and thumb, so it can slip easily when it's tight. If you keep it in your fist, like a 3/4" spanner, you can't "feel" when its thight. That way you will tear up the thread and that is a difficult damage to repair.
It's like judging in advance how much force you probably need to get it fixed. If you use your fingers, the force is in your wrist. Gentle, subtile, agile, but not so strong. If you use your fist, the force is in your upper arm, more monkey like.
"En schöne Gruess" from an Alpine railway in Holland.
Re: New Millie
Cheers Daan & Frederic - great feedback - I'll have a fettle over the coming days and see how we get on - think its just me "getting used to things"
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Now named and numbered
Finally got around to naming the Millie - until now all motive power has carried the names of current and deceased pets ( I know!) - for my first steamer I decided I would start a series of locos based around a topic - aka as happens in the 'real world'
So being based in Kent and seeing regular flyovers by WW2 fighters, I decided I'd start in this area - so Millie has become
No4 - Spitfire
I took my time fitting the plates, using the masking tape approach recommend by John Lythgoe who I obtained the plates from - very pleased with the result - and after numerous steaming, they are still on there!
So being based in Kent and seeing regular flyovers by WW2 fighters, I decided I'd start in this area - so Millie has become
No4 - Spitfire
I took my time fitting the plates, using the masking tape approach recommend by John Lythgoe who I obtained the plates from - very pleased with the result - and after numerous steaming, they are still on there!
Where did I put that uncoupler?
- tom_tom_go
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Re: New Millie
Great name, looks the part. Shame she does not sound like a Merlin engine though
Did you see the spitfires fly over yesterday at home as I am in Kent as well?
Did you see the spitfires fly over yesterday at home as I am in Kent as well?
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Re: New Millie
Yes, Spitfire flypast in Deal yesterday. I think it was the Royal Marines' annual visit.
Re: New Millie
Yes I did, well I heard them well ahead of seeing them - I think they were displaying at Headcorn (as well as at Deal) - the Battle of Britain event - I'm near TWells and we tend to be on the westerly out route before they go north or south to avoid the Gatwick stacks.
I think a dual seated one is based there as we regularly see it up above with another plane close by taking pics of the lucky person in the second seat.
I think a dual seated one is based there as we regularly see it up above with another plane close by taking pics of the lucky person in the second seat.
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: New Millie
Nice job there.
(The grapes in the background seem to be doing nicely as well )
(The grapes in the background seem to be doing nicely as well )
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
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