Help wanted re. fitting a MK11 with Radio Control
- mikewakefielduk@btinterne
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Help wanted re. fitting a MK11 with Radio Control
To save me re-inventing the wheel has anybody got any suggestions regarding fitting Radio Control to a Mk11?
I've seen a couple of videos of R/C Mk11s on YouTube but nothing giving any detail on how to do it. Presumably its something like putting R/C in the original MSS Mamod?
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Mike
I've seen a couple of videos of R/C Mk11s on YouTube but nothing giving any detail on how to do it. Presumably its something like putting R/C in the original MSS Mamod?
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Mike
- Chris Cairns
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Mike,
An interesting subject.
On the original Mamod SL & MSS locomotives the radio control was fitted on the combined reverser/regulator lever at the front of the loco. This involved a couple of bell cranks and push rods.
I have an article from Garden Rail (May 2000) where Radio Control was fitted to an IP Jane, using 2 channels, one on the reverser valve at front and one on regulator in cab. Sadly it does not actually show you the regulator control used.
IP Engineering introduced a Radio Control kit for the IP Jane (after the above article) but this involved a replacement reverser lever and associated control arms. I assume that you set the regulator to a pre-set position.
Problem with most servos is they have a limited range of movement of normally 120 degrees. You can get programmable digital servos increasing that movement to 180 degrees, or use a sail winch servo that can have over 360 degrees of movement.
For the Mark II you would probably need to use some form of pinion & gears as 120 degrees of regulator movement would not produce enough control from no steam to running. Alternatively just fit a control on the reverser valve at the front and set the regulator to a pre-set open position - problem with this option is Mamod have cut away the apron/footplate at the front so there is little space for mounting a bell crank there.
I've only found one YouTube video of an R/C Mark II (trainmodeller) and that one is very much a stop start control but I cannot see what he is actually controlling (looks like a servo in the middle of the cab).
Chris Cairns.
An interesting subject.
On the original Mamod SL & MSS locomotives the radio control was fitted on the combined reverser/regulator lever at the front of the loco. This involved a couple of bell cranks and push rods.
I have an article from Garden Rail (May 2000) where Radio Control was fitted to an IP Jane, using 2 channels, one on the reverser valve at front and one on regulator in cab. Sadly it does not actually show you the regulator control used.
IP Engineering introduced a Radio Control kit for the IP Jane (after the above article) but this involved a replacement reverser lever and associated control arms. I assume that you set the regulator to a pre-set position.
Problem with most servos is they have a limited range of movement of normally 120 degrees. You can get programmable digital servos increasing that movement to 180 degrees, or use a sail winch servo that can have over 360 degrees of movement.
For the Mark II you would probably need to use some form of pinion & gears as 120 degrees of regulator movement would not produce enough control from no steam to running. Alternatively just fit a control on the reverser valve at the front and set the regulator to a pre-set open position - problem with this option is Mamod have cut away the apron/footplate at the front so there is little space for mounting a bell crank there.
I've only found one YouTube video of an R/C Mark II (trainmodeller) and that one is very much a stop start control but I cannot see what he is actually controlling (looks like a servo in the middle of the cab).
Chris Cairns.
- Superbiker_uk
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Hi Mike - Not sure if it will help but you may be interested in this post I made some time back that included the original R/C conversion instructions supplied by Merlin for the Mamod SL range of loco's. I have installed a kit like this in a tender Mamod. Good luck with the R/C of your MKII.
http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about5082.html
http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about5082.html
- mikewakefielduk@btinterne
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- Location: Shropshire
Thanks for the replies. I too can now only find one video on Youtube but from what you can make out in the blurry image the forward /reverse lever at the front looks as normal so I think the R/C must be operating the regulator only. I like the way it stop/starts.
Regulator control only will probably be fine by itself, as my main requirement is to stop the loco running away down the sloped part of my track and then derailing when it reaches the bend at the bottom. I think there's enough room in the Mk11's cab for a small servo and I reckon I could fashion a suitable coal bunker to go on the back to hide the battery and receiver.
A few years ago my (then) teenage son was into R/C in quite a big way so I've raided his box of leftovers in the loft and found a 180 degree servo that I've experimented with controlling the regulator of my Brunel. As you say Chris, it really needs to be 360 degree or more, so I guess that calls for a trawl through ebay and no doubt waiting a few weeks for the only affordable item to arrive from China.
Thanks for the link to the Merlin Radio Control instructions. Unfortunately, as Chris points out, the shape of the Mk11 doesn't readily lend itself to mounting a bell crank on the front footplate. Somewhere I've an article where an intrepid Mamod modifier had run a link directly from the front steam valve then under the boiler and into the cab, which is something else I might consider, given time.
Mike
Regulator control only will probably be fine by itself, as my main requirement is to stop the loco running away down the sloped part of my track and then derailing when it reaches the bend at the bottom. I think there's enough room in the Mk11's cab for a small servo and I reckon I could fashion a suitable coal bunker to go on the back to hide the battery and receiver.
A few years ago my (then) teenage son was into R/C in quite a big way so I've raided his box of leftovers in the loft and found a 180 degree servo that I've experimented with controlling the regulator of my Brunel. As you say Chris, it really needs to be 360 degree or more, so I guess that calls for a trawl through ebay and no doubt waiting a few weeks for the only affordable item to arrive from China.
Thanks for the link to the Merlin Radio Control instructions. Unfortunately, as Chris points out, the shape of the Mk11 doesn't readily lend itself to mounting a bell crank on the front footplate. Somewhere I've an article where an intrepid Mamod modifier had run a link directly from the front steam valve then under the boiler and into the cab, which is something else I might consider, given time.
Mike
- Chris Cairns
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Peter I assume that this is referring to the radio control of the reverser valve on PJLW No.2 'Ronald'? As that loco has a cab mounted regulator how much do you open this regulator prior to using the radio control on the reverser valve, and how fine is the control achieved for the speed? Are you using a rachet type throttle control on your transmitter (and so have had to set up a neutral position for the reverser) or are you using a spring loaded back to centre type stick control?Superbiker_uk wrote:I have installed a kit like this in a tender Mamod
Chris Cairns.
- Superbiker_uk
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Chris - the boiler, regulator and lubricator on No.2 are all genuine IP Engineering items. The regulator only needs 1/2 - 1 turn out. The control is by the reverser valve and is quite good in my opinion. The radio gear is pretty old school. I have set the neutral position to be off and the forward and reverse on the stick gives full control (full on in both directions on the reverser). I had to do some trial and error though on the set up and did not follow the Merlin hole placements exactly. The servo link is very good and I have used servo tape to fix the servo and it holds up well although I built the loco to display on my "Finham Halt" diorama so it has not done much running. I shall have to get it steamed up and again in the New Year and video some to show. BTW Ronald is my father and Finham is the last place he lived before he died. He was a Coventry kid through and through. Lived through the blitz and all that. This was built in his memory. I think he would have loved it. Just wanting to explain why I haven't used the loco much.
- mikewakefielduk@btinterne
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So far so good?
I've got this far in fitting a R/C to a Mk11:
Made the front and side parts of a coal bunker to attach to the back of the loco. The scale is a bit wrong but its the smallest I can get it and still hold the servo, rechargeable battery, receiver, on/off switch and all the wiring.
Had various attempts at linking the servo to the regulator valve and settled on using meccano sprocket wheels linked by a continuous chain as this seems to cope best with the sprocket on the regulator moving in and out as it rotates.
Servo has a 360 degree rotation so will fully open and close the regulator.
Problems encountered:
I've run out of brass sheet and the snow seems to have scared the Royal Mail from delivering to our village in spite of private courier firms coping fine.
Tried to paint the brass when it was too cold. Result was a sticky mess still runny after 2 hours so had to remove it all again.
Am trying to make it look "Mamod" by using pop rivets but my rivets heads are too large. Like the brass sheet the proper size ones are delayed because of the lack of post.
Will post some pictures when I can this site to accept them.
Made the front and side parts of a coal bunker to attach to the back of the loco. The scale is a bit wrong but its the smallest I can get it and still hold the servo, rechargeable battery, receiver, on/off switch and all the wiring.
Had various attempts at linking the servo to the regulator valve and settled on using meccano sprocket wheels linked by a continuous chain as this seems to cope best with the sprocket on the regulator moving in and out as it rotates.
Servo has a 360 degree rotation so will fully open and close the regulator.
Problems encountered:
I've run out of brass sheet and the snow seems to have scared the Royal Mail from delivering to our village in spite of private courier firms coping fine.
Tried to paint the brass when it was too cold. Result was a sticky mess still runny after 2 hours so had to remove it all again.
Am trying to make it look "Mamod" by using pop rivets but my rivets heads are too large. Like the brass sheet the proper size ones are delayed because of the lack of post.
Will post some pictures when I can this site to accept them.
- Superbiker_uk
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- mikewakefielduk@btinterne
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- Location: Shropshire
- mikewakefielduk@btinterne
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and on Youtube....
http://youtu.be/H2vWNnCP3IA
Judging by the way it starts with a rush the loco clearly needs a lot more running in.
http://youtu.be/H2vWNnCP3IA
Judging by the way it starts with a rush the loco clearly needs a lot more running in.
- laurence703
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- mikewakefielduk@btinterne
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Thanks for the feedback. The loco certainly looks back heavy but having weighed the loco from the front buffer and then the back there's not a great deal of actual difference.
To be honest I'm not quite sure what to do. I'd originally thought to make the loco a 0-4-2 as you suggest. However, after some experimenting I've concluded the only way such a loco could get round the tight curves of my track would be to have the trailing wheels mounted on a bogie that also floats from side to side.
Which is fine going forward but experience suggest derailing could be a issue going backwards.
So maybe make the trailing wheels merely cosmetic, flangeless and not quite touching the track?
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Meanwhile, the proof of the pudding will be actual running, which may have to wait awhile.
Mike
To be honest I'm not quite sure what to do. I'd originally thought to make the loco a 0-4-2 as you suggest. However, after some experimenting I've concluded the only way such a loco could get round the tight curves of my track would be to have the trailing wheels mounted on a bogie that also floats from side to side.
Which is fine going forward but experience suggest derailing could be a issue going backwards.
So maybe make the trailing wheels merely cosmetic, flangeless and not quite touching the track?
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Meanwhile, the proof of the pudding will be actual running, which may have to wait awhile.
Mike
- mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 pm
- Location: Shropshire
I've put some more photos onto Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23490202@N02/
Short term needs:
Cab roof re-attached.
Some better weather for an outside run.
Will probably experiment with placing some lead blocks at the front as a counterbalance.
and then think about a trailing axle.
Mike
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23490202@N02/
Short term needs:
Cab roof re-attached.
Some better weather for an outside run.
Will probably experiment with placing some lead blocks at the front as a counterbalance.
and then think about a trailing axle.
Mike
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