A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
- gregh
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 572
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:44 am
- Location: Sydney, Australia
- Contact:
A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
This is a loco build from a few years back.
Despite not being a diesel fan, I decided I would build a ‘larger’ one as they are much easier than a steam loco. I don’t build exact models but like to choose bits from different prototypes. After perusing many photos, I decided I wanted a two hood type, with a small low hood at the front, and a cab that stood higher than the main hood.
I used an Aristo motor block ART29351 from wholesaletrains.com . This is the one used in their L’il Critter. I had another spare set of bogie side frames left over from a previous build. (Aristocraft is no longer a great source of motor blocks)
Planning
My usual method of drawing the plans is to take a side-on pic of the bogie and obtain either a pic or plans of the loco. I then crop the loco pic below the running board and paste both in to LibreOffice Writer. If I adjust the screen “%” (“zoom”) I can draw it to full or half size for an A4 paper size. I shortened the drawing to suit the wheelbase and the total length I wanted. I’ve decided 500mm is the absolute max length for any vehicle on my line, so this one is 480mm.
Then I used Libre Office Draw to outline around the pic to get a simple, full-size drawing, like this. Allows me to decide on colour scheme and lettering style too.
Now the hardest part for me - how to fit everything in and be able to access it, with the minimum number of plugs and sockets. This planning usually takes more time than building it !
I had bought the 2.4 GHz speed controller and receiver, and a 3000 mAh LiPo battery, and the sound card, so I had their sizes. I made sure the hood was wide and high enough to fit them in.
Getting started
Finally I actually started work. First I built the dummy bogie from bits of 25x25mm aluminium angle, some wood and used old plastic Bachmann wheels. They are 3mm smaller diameter than the powered wheels, but who’s going to notice when the side frames are the same level. This shows the top and undersides. The yellow is a bit of scrap steel for weight.
The lugs on top of the bogies were ground off to create a flat bearing for the baseplate to swivel.
Then I cut the baseplate from 1.5mm styrene and glued 10x3mm aluminium bar underneath for strength.
Then I started making all the body pieces, from 1.5mm styrene. It’s amazing how many bits there are. This pics shows most except the cab roof. I’ve learnt from experience that it’s best to put all the detail on BEFORE you assemble it ! (Did I really say that a diesel was easier to build than a steamie?)
I used 0.5mm clear acrylic for windows and build up a sort of frame inside the cab so the acrylic slides in from the top. This allows the windows to be fitted after painting. This pic gives the idea. Here’s the top of the long hood and one of the sides. All the hood and cab sides glue/screw onto the base. All electronics fits in the long hood so all wiring to motor, battery, switch, sound card, charge points, and lights is fixed in place. The only plug/socket is to the speaker which is mounted on the hood roof which is held in place by small magnets. The 2" dia speaker mounts under the circular 'radiator' grill.
to be continued......
Despite not being a diesel fan, I decided I would build a ‘larger’ one as they are much easier than a steam loco. I don’t build exact models but like to choose bits from different prototypes. After perusing many photos, I decided I wanted a two hood type, with a small low hood at the front, and a cab that stood higher than the main hood.
I used an Aristo motor block ART29351 from wholesaletrains.com . This is the one used in their L’il Critter. I had another spare set of bogie side frames left over from a previous build. (Aristocraft is no longer a great source of motor blocks)
Planning
My usual method of drawing the plans is to take a side-on pic of the bogie and obtain either a pic or plans of the loco. I then crop the loco pic below the running board and paste both in to LibreOffice Writer. If I adjust the screen “%” (“zoom”) I can draw it to full or half size for an A4 paper size. I shortened the drawing to suit the wheelbase and the total length I wanted. I’ve decided 500mm is the absolute max length for any vehicle on my line, so this one is 480mm.
Then I used Libre Office Draw to outline around the pic to get a simple, full-size drawing, like this. Allows me to decide on colour scheme and lettering style too.
Now the hardest part for me - how to fit everything in and be able to access it, with the minimum number of plugs and sockets. This planning usually takes more time than building it !
I had bought the 2.4 GHz speed controller and receiver, and a 3000 mAh LiPo battery, and the sound card, so I had their sizes. I made sure the hood was wide and high enough to fit them in.
Getting started
Finally I actually started work. First I built the dummy bogie from bits of 25x25mm aluminium angle, some wood and used old plastic Bachmann wheels. They are 3mm smaller diameter than the powered wheels, but who’s going to notice when the side frames are the same level. This shows the top and undersides. The yellow is a bit of scrap steel for weight.
The lugs on top of the bogies were ground off to create a flat bearing for the baseplate to swivel.
Then I cut the baseplate from 1.5mm styrene and glued 10x3mm aluminium bar underneath for strength.
Then I started making all the body pieces, from 1.5mm styrene. It’s amazing how many bits there are. This pics shows most except the cab roof. I’ve learnt from experience that it’s best to put all the detail on BEFORE you assemble it ! (Did I really say that a diesel was easier to build than a steamie?)
I used 0.5mm clear acrylic for windows and build up a sort of frame inside the cab so the acrylic slides in from the top. This allows the windows to be fitted after painting. This pic gives the idea. Here’s the top of the long hood and one of the sides. All the hood and cab sides glue/screw onto the base. All electronics fits in the long hood so all wiring to motor, battery, switch, sound card, charge points, and lights is fixed in place. The only plug/socket is to the speaker which is mounted on the hood roof which is held in place by small magnets. The 2" dia speaker mounts under the circular 'radiator' grill.
to be continued......
Last edited by gregh on Mon Aug 03, 2020 10:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Greg from downunder.
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
I like it Greg.
A well illustrated "This is how I...." is my favourite type of thread and this carries just enough detail and gives plenty of food for thought. Looking forward to future installments.
A well illustrated "This is how I...." is my favourite type of thread and this carries just enough detail and gives plenty of food for thought. Looking forward to future installments.
Philip
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Terrific. Love the way you’ve organised your build and the crisp, precise subassemblies - with incorporated grills, glazing and stuff. Neat. Have you toyed with it spewing out plumes of synchronised, filthy black exhaust too? (I’ve been seduced by the videos on the forum demonstrating this and have been pondering prototypes to exploit it - this is perfect)
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5260
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Superb build Greg, love the detail and construction method, good solid structure which will look and handle well.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
I like the idea of making the window glass removable. I must try that on my next build. Actually, my next build is the boneworks - but the idea should work equally well on buildings!
Rik
Rik
- -steves-
- Administrator
- Posts: 2445
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
- Location: Cambridge & Peterborough
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Totally agree with Rik on this one as above, brilliant idea to have a removable window, certainly something I shall be doing in some future builds
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
A lovely model there Greg. Can I ask what method you used to cut the windows and other openings in your model? I have to say I have varied results doing such things, and it's quite demoralising having to start again when I make an inevitable slip of the knife - especially when it happens on the last cut!
Phil
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
- gregh
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 572
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:44 am
- Location: Sydney, Australia
- Contact:
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Rule1 is always cut on the backside, so slips don't show. And always cut to the inside of the window.Lonsdaler wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 12:55 pm A lovely model there Greg. Can I ask what method you used to cut the windows and other openings in your model? I have to say I have varied results doing such things, and it's quite demoralising having to start again when I make an inevitable slip of the knife - especially when it happens on the last cut!
A lot of my models have a 'inner box' made from 1.5mm styrene covered by an outer 0.5mm styrene 'skin' with any rivets etc on it. So any slip cuts are covered up.
When cutting windows in thicker styrene (>1mm), I drill holes inside each corner of the window, then cut diagonally across between the corners, then finally around the 4 sides. That allows me to break out the 4 triangles easily. Then a square file in the corners.
And I admit - I hate doing them!
When making passenger carriages with lots of windows, I make the outer sides from 0.5mm styrene which is much easier to cut the windows out of, and then build up the 'insides' of the windows with smaller, thicker styrene pieces for strength. Then a final inner 0.5mm to cover it all up. (then the slide in window holders.)
Sorry if it's hard to understand, but I don't have any pics.
I can't remember where I got the idea from, but it's how I have always done my windows after my first disaster trying to use superglue.
Not likely! SaTR maintains their diesels to better standard than that.
Greg from downunder.
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5260
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
I certainly can't claim to have invented the idea of removable glazing, but I have always used it for various reasons, firstly, as Greg says, superglue is a nightmare to use as it gets on the glazing and shows marks, no matter how careful you think you have been, it can also 'fog' and cause further damage.
Also, I find it a better way to spray paint models as card can be slid in to the grooves to prevent paint entering the carriage whilst spraying the outside of the model.
The most important thing is that the glazing will not be pushed into the model if pressure is applied to the windows by rough handling. This can be a major issue if roof sections are permanently fixed so getting to the inside becomes almost impossible without causing more damage.......
Also, I find it a better way to spray paint models as card can be slid in to the grooves to prevent paint entering the carriage whilst spraying the outside of the model.
The most important thing is that the glazing will not be pushed into the model if pressure is applied to the windows by rough handling. This can be a major issue if roof sections are permanently fixed so getting to the inside becomes almost impossible without causing more damage.......
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
- gregh
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 572
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:44 am
- Location: Sydney, Australia
- Contact:
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Using card as a 'mask' while painting is a great idea.
Greg from downunder.
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
I've found all of that out the hard way over the years, and my carriage builds now all feature removable glazing... That reminds me, I must give my Gladsone Car some attention - I can currently only run it one way round because one of the windows is pushed in, exactly as Peter describes!Peter Butler wrote: ↑Thu Aug 06, 2020 10:28 am I certainly can't claim to have invented the idea of removable glazing, but I have always used it for various reasons, firstly, as Greg says, superglue is a nightmare to use as it gets on the glazing and shows marks, no matter how careful you think you have been, it can also 'fog' and cause further damage.
Also, I find it a better way to spray paint models as card can be slid in to the grooves to prevent paint entering the carriage whilst spraying the outside of the model.
The most important thing is that the glazing will not be pushed into the model if pressure is applied to the windows by rough handling. This can be a major issue if roof sections are permanently fixed so getting to the inside becomes almost impossible without causing more damage.......
Lovely loco Greg, it's going to look fantastic when it's finished, thanks for the pics and descriptions...
Andrew.
- gregh
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 572
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:44 am
- Location: Sydney, Australia
- Contact:
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
continuing the build...
This time, I decided to paint and line all the parts before glueing it all together. It seemed to be easier to work with.
I managed to glue it all up without ruining any paintwork.
I used 2.4 GHz radio control (Hobbyking) with a 3000mAh Li-Po battery and a Talking Electronics diesel sound kit. In this pic, the battery is under the electronics at left and sound board on right. I built my own Picaxe interfacing circuits to allow the diesels revs to speed up before the loco speed.
The same picaxe controls the driver rotation too – see later.
Note that I do not use a charging socket – just two ‘pins’ that I clip onto with alligator clips. Here the pins are disguised as handles. That also means I don’t use a 2-way switch to disconnect the electronics from the battery when charging. I have never seen the point of that idea.
I got a bit carried away and decided to mount the driver on a servo so he rotates to face the direction of travel! This was a bit complicated as a servo only turns through 90 degrees whereas I need 180 degrees. So the servo arm turns 90 degrees and the driver’s seat is mounted on the arm and is turned through another 90 degs by a ‘fork’ on the floor of the cab. See video later.
I also had to perform a sex change operation on the driver as I only had some seated female figures and this is the 1950s so no women drivers!
And a video of the servo moving the driver from above.
The lettering and lining is adhesive vinyl made by Gscale Graphics in USA.
The large numbers on the cab are wooden, from a craft shop.
And here’s the finished product: The only problem is the light weight of LiPo batteries compared to NiMH. I had to add a lot of lead!
Here’s a link to a short video on Youtube:
This time, I decided to paint and line all the parts before glueing it all together. It seemed to be easier to work with.
I managed to glue it all up without ruining any paintwork.
I used 2.4 GHz radio control (Hobbyking) with a 3000mAh Li-Po battery and a Talking Electronics diesel sound kit. In this pic, the battery is under the electronics at left and sound board on right. I built my own Picaxe interfacing circuits to allow the diesels revs to speed up before the loco speed.
The same picaxe controls the driver rotation too – see later.
Note that I do not use a charging socket – just two ‘pins’ that I clip onto with alligator clips. Here the pins are disguised as handles. That also means I don’t use a 2-way switch to disconnect the electronics from the battery when charging. I have never seen the point of that idea.
I got a bit carried away and decided to mount the driver on a servo so he rotates to face the direction of travel! This was a bit complicated as a servo only turns through 90 degrees whereas I need 180 degrees. So the servo arm turns 90 degrees and the driver’s seat is mounted on the arm and is turned through another 90 degs by a ‘fork’ on the floor of the cab. See video later.
I also had to perform a sex change operation on the driver as I only had some seated female figures and this is the 1950s so no women drivers!
And a video of the servo moving the driver from above.
The lettering and lining is adhesive vinyl made by Gscale Graphics in USA.
The large numbers on the cab are wooden, from a craft shop.
And here’s the finished product: The only problem is the light weight of LiPo batteries compared to NiMH. I had to add a lot of lead!
Here’s a link to a short video on Youtube:
Greg from downunder.
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Loving the look of this - good one! Excellent idea of using the servo to 'reverse' the driver. And I may well use some of your plasticard techniques (windows) on my next build. Thanks for sharing
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Love that driver mech, absolutely superb. The loco isn't bad either!
Philip
- Old Man Aaron
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 813
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:08 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD, Australia
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Very well organised write-up and build, Greg! You come up with some excellent ideas, too.
Regards,
Aaron
Regards,
Aaron
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
- gregh
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 572
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:44 am
- Location: Sydney, Australia
- Contact:
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Thanks Aaron. Someday we'll be able to visit Queensland and maybe get together. (Me bruvver lives in Buderim)Old Man Aaron wrote: ↑Thu Aug 13, 2020 5:25 am Very well organised write-up and build, Greg! You come up with some excellent ideas, too.
Regards,
Aaron
Greg from downunder.
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Greg,gregh wrote: ↑Thu Aug 06, 2020 9:51 am
Rule1 is always cut on the backside, so slips don't show. And always cut to the inside of the window.
A lot of my models have a 'inner box' made from 1.5mm styrene covered by an outer 0.5mm styrene 'skin' with any rivets etc on it. So any slip cuts are covered up.
When cutting windows in thicker styrene (>1mm), I drill holes inside each corner of the window, then cut diagonally across between the corners, then finally around the 4 sides. That allows me to break out the 4 triangles easily. Then a square file in the corners.
And I admit - I hate doing them!
When making passenger carriages with lots of windows, I make the outer sides from 0.5mm styrene which is much easier to cut the windows out of, and then build up the 'insides' of the windows with smaller, thicker styrene pieces for strength. Then a final inner 0.5mm to cover it all up. (then the slide in window holders.)
Sorry if it's hard to understand, but I don't have any pics.
Apologies for taking so long to come back to this
Thanks for posting such a detailed reply - it all seems obvious as you detail it there - especially cutting from the 'inside out', and using thin styrene skin has given me an idea to finally tackle a part built loco I purchased, where the previous modeller was even more slapdash than me - it has sat neglected because I couldn't face cutting new openings in 1-2mm styrene! I shall save this useful advice to my modelling hints and tips folder - thank you.
Phil
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
And now I've finished the rest of the thread - excellent. The 'reversing' driver is ingenious, and aslo the recharging 'pins' - such a simple idea. Thanks so much for sharing, there's lots of food for thought there.
Phil
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Just catching up with this thread - what a great looking loco, well done! Love the livery too...
Thanks for the detailed write up,
Andrew.
Thanks for the detailed write up,
Andrew.
- Old Man Aaron
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 813
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:08 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD, Australia
Re: A scratchbuilt "big" diesel
Aye, would be good to meet you in person. Funny you say that, I'm all of five minutes from Buderim.
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests