1:6 scale GWR Signal

[idlemarvel]

As per title, for my 5 inch railway I want to build a few GWR style lower quadrant signals, As I am basing my railway around 2 foot 6 inch gauge prototypes, that makes the scale 1:6. Scaleway Signals make some beautiful models, 1/2 size and 1/4 size, and their 1/4 size small signal would be just about perfect size, but a stop and distant pair would cost over £750.

See here for details: http://www.scalewaysignals.com/products ... square.htm

My project is to build a rough and ready stop and distant signal from wood for next to nothing from stuff I have lying around. I'm keeping it simple as it needs to be operated by a three year old, so I will use the counterweight as a lever to operate the signal. The distant will be fixed.

I had a couple of 50mm x 50mm metposts, and some planks of tongue and groove and other timber left over from the shed. Here's where I'm at so far. Here is the arm and spectacle for the stop signal, cut from the plank with holes from my cutting attachment.

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This is the counterweight cut from a much thicker piece of timber, so I had to cut the hole from both sides and miraculously it matched up very well.

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The mast I had to buy some 47mm x 47mm treated timber from Wickes. It should be tapered really but as mentioned this is rough and ready. I don't have a lathe to turn my own I bought a finial as well. (I had to explain to the shop staff several times what a finial was, I guess it is not a word in common usage.) The finial is too big really but I'll make do. The blue and red glass for the spectacles will come from some thin sheet acetate painted with glass paints "borrowed" from the misses. The lamp will be a dummy initially made from blocks of scrap wood, as I don't plan on running trains after dark.

This design came out of my head having studied many pictures, rather than scaling up real plans, and I'm making some of it up as I go along. I haven't quite thought through the mechanics yet but it will probably be some rigid fencing wire between the counterweight lever and the arm, with some stops to hold the arm in place in the clear position.

So far it has cost less than £10. I may have to buy some red paint as the stuff I have lying around is called Cardinal Red and I suspect it will be completely the wrong shade, but I haven't opened the tin yet.

[tom_tom_go]

I didn't know what a finial was either but I do now!

Will you have lamps installed on the signals?

[idlemarvel]

No real lamps at this stage Tom (I assume that is your name tom_tom_go) but there is a bracket for one.

Here's where I've got to today. The stiff wire for the mechanism would not work (bent under strain from 3-year old) so I have used a piece of spare dowel with eyes screwed in the end. Needs some adjustment and it would be better with some thinner dowel (6mm maybe) but it basically works. I'm quite pleased with the finial (now we all know what they are!).

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I know that the counterweight should be down when the signal is set to stop but it would have made it more complicated.

I just need to add the spectacle glass and paint the whole lot. I think the red I have will be okay so the cost so far is just over £10 as I bought another finial today for the distant signal that is next on the list,

[tom_tom_go]

Love it, easy to operate at any age!

Yes my name is Tom, well guessed sir

[Peter Butler]

I'm no expert on these matters (although I do know a finial when I see one) but if the operating rod was on the other side of the post, connected to the spectacle end of the arm, and the lever and weight also sited on the same side, I think it should operate in the way you would like.

[idlemarvel]

Yes Peter, correct, if you connect the rod to the spectacle side and leave the other end as is, that would work prototypically. I didn't do that because it would have meant the rod crossing in front of the signal which spoiled the appearance greatly. On the prototype no "push" is required because of the weight of the arm, so cables work.

[DonW]

While full size it would be normal to be On unless pulled off, it the context of a garden line it will work well to be normally off. It will mean that if there is no one to operate the signal you will not keep passing it at Danger. The signal can be operated to stop the train.

I think the signal looks good and adds to the ambiance.

Don

[idlemarvel]

You make good points Don. I agree, and thanks for your kind words.

[idlemarvel]

Finished painting and they are now in place. My grandson now wants to be a signalman!

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The space behind the signal in the full sun is reserved for a siding.

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I also made a matching fixed distant signal:

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I wasn't sure if they had yellow ball and spike finials but it looked nice.

[tom_tom_go]

I think they fit in with what you are building and can be easily operated, brilliant.

[DonW]

Here's one on the Gloucestershire and Warwickshire Railway https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4417542 showing the yellow ball. I think that looks just right.

Don

[idlemarvel]

Thanks for the research Don.

[Soar Valley Light]

Hi idealmarvel,

You're spot on, red balls for stop signal, yellow ones for distants - even fixed ones.

When do you start work on the signal box and lever frame? That would really have your grandson hooked!

All the best,

Andrew

[idlemarvel]

Thanks Andrew. Don't think I've got room for a signalbox but I have toyed with the idea of a ground frame when the point and siding are installed.

[Soar Valley Light]

Good plan. From tiny ground frames mighty signal boxes grow!

All the best,

Andrew