SM32 set-track

[Phil.P]

Hello All,

Not sure if it is just me?
But I am finding it a little opaque, trying to find a 'simple' guide to what is available in set-track..

There are any number of examples of curve radius, turnouts etc. for 45mm track, but nothing I can find (easily, and concise) for 32mm narrow gauge.

Can anyone point me to somewhere more specific, than the Peco website, which I am finding is not-good, if you don't already know what you want.

Many thanks,
Phil Partridge.

[philipy]

But I am finding it a little opaque, trying to find a 'simple' guide to what is available in set-track..

There are any number of examples of curve radius, turnouts etc. for 45mm track, but nothing I can find (easily, and concise) for 32mm narrow gauge.

Can anyone point me to somewhere more specific, than the Peco website,

Phil,

I'm not sure that anyone other than Peco does narrow gauge 32mm 'set track'. There are, of course, quite a few standard gauge 32mm track suppliers, but even so I doubt you'll find them all neatly listed on one document.

[metalmuncher]

As far as I know there isn't really that much choice in what PECO do, its just 2 different radii curves, 2 different radii points and a Y-point, that's your lot. Their entire SM-32 range is just 11 items, the list is on their website: https://peco-uk.com/collections/peco/sm-32-32mm

Cliff Barker does premade points, but not curves as far as I can see.

[Phil.P]

O-Kayyyyyy............

So.. In the world of 'G', the perceived wisdom is, everything LGB will go round R1, but if you are just starting out, don't go below LGB R3..

Or bigger, if you have the funds!

So, what are the equivalent 32mm (narrow gauge) pearls of wisdom, and rabid generalisations then?

(Adjusts sandbags, and dons hard-hat).

[philipy]

So, what are the equivalent 32mm (narrow gauge) pearls of wisdom, and rabid generalisations then?

Only one really... The shorter the wheelbase the tighter the curve it will negotiate. Of course the tighter the curve the more gauge widening becomes necessary, as well.

[metalmuncher]

So, what are the equivalent 32mm (narrow gauge) pearls of wisdom, and rabid generalisations then?

Only one really... The shorter the wheelbase the tighter the curve it will negotiate. Of course the tighter the curve the more gauge widening becomes necessary, as well.

As philipy says - it really depends on what you want to run. Roundhouse include minimum radii in the specification for their models on their website to give you some idea of what can be run on what curves: https://www.roundhouse-eng.com/classicseries.htm

Generally the 0-4-0s and smaller 6 couples are 2ft radius, up to 3ft for the 4-6-2 Darjeeling 'C' Class or the Double Fairlie.

[Phil.P]

Generally the 0-4-0s and smaller 6 couples are 2ft radius, up to 3ft for the 4-6-2 Darjeeling 'C' Class or the Double Fairlie.

Ah! Thank you, some numbers..

Thing is, I want to run 'everything'

I have much 45mm track.. Less 32mm narrow gauge.. And even less 0 gauge track..

As for loco's and stock.. I have all sorts of rubbish!

I also have a need to be able to run almost any scale / gauge. - Strictly for 'testing purposes' you understand?



I suppose, as long as I can arrange 20-30 feet of straight track (no points) then I should be able to run most things. At least to check them, and if I stick to the larger radius curves, possibly run stuff under-test, a little further..

I know I would have trouble with gauge 1 and (so called) G scale point-work. - Probably the same, with 0 gauge on SM32 point-work.


I think I was confused, by the small amount of SM32 I could find on the Peco site?
Not helped, by the nomenclature of curves, versus points.
I know that a 'radius' when referring to a point, is a bit of a misnomer, but it helps if it is made obvious (I missed it) that you can drop the curved route of a point, in place of standard curve.

Thanks for the info..
Look's like a rail-bender might be a good investment?

Phil.P

[Lonsdaler]

As far as I know there isn't really that much choice in what PECO do, its just 2 different radii curves, 2 different radii points and a Y-point, that's your lot. Their entire SM-32 range is just 11 items, the list is on their website: https://peco-uk.com/collections/peco/sm-32-32mm

Cliff Barker does premade points, but not curves as far as I can see.

If you click on the images displayed in metalmunchers link, it takes you to the specification for that item - the 1st radius standard curve has a 762mm radius, the 2nd radius curve is 965mm.

[Phil.P]

Thanks to everyone for the contributions..
As normal, so-called 'track standards' are a bit of a rabbit-hole, and if you want to be able to cross from one scale to another (same notional track-gauge) then the rabbit-hole becomes a complete Warren!

[Phil.P]

So, having been bullied by Twitch (train-mad feline) and the weather being better..

I has had a rummage in the shed, and found:

Lots of (notionally, it is second hand) straight track. - roughly 30 lengths.
Two large radius LH points.
Four Y points.

I then downloaded Anyrail, and tried to create a loop with Peco set track curves.. .
Nothing fits! Nearest to a loop I can create, is with a Y point. Looks like the ends could be forced to fit, but a loop using a straight point, seems to need a fair bit of fettling?

I think I will need to invest in a rail-bender?

[Lonsdaler]

I tried using Anyrail when I first set out to design my railway and found it difficult to use. In the end I did a sketch and went by 'eye'. I think I'm still solving the issues that caused 8 years later

[Jimmyb]

I have used the on-line Trax, quite useful, and now a 3D version:
https://www.traxeditor.com/index.php/

[invicta280]

I don't know if Peco are ever going to get themselves reset after the pandemic.
I ordered a Peco SM32 point from Rails of Sheffield in May 2021.
Apparently it's still on back order!

[Phil.P]

Ouch! That is not good..


So, it appears that I could (just about) make a loop, using a 'Y' point, and set track curves.
But if AnyRail is to be believed, I can't make a return loop, with a large radius point, and set track curves..

Look's like I need a rail bender?

I have introduced myself to the local 16mm Group.. I will have to try to get to one or two local railways, and take it from there..

[Chris Cairns]

Your problem is the Medium Radius points (SLE-695 & 696) are 1524mm (60in) radius. There is no setrack for that radius hence you need to make your own with the flexible track.

Alternatively use the Small Radius points (SLE-691 & 692) with the 2nd Radius setrack curves (ST-607).

Curious that none of the 32mm gauge points are currently listed on the Peco website?

Chris Cairns

[Phil.P]

I am finding SM32 track, is a lot less 'forgiving' than code 332 45mm track.
Possibly not helped, by it all being 'of an age' and second hand, it has a tendency to twist, lift, and not hold a curve, so well..
Re-mangled rail-joiners, do not hold so well, either.

I had hoped to roughly lay some track, but it is looking more reminiscent of a badly laid peat railway!

I wanted the track to 'float', but it is looking a bit choppy, at the moment.


There does not seem to be a lot of (ready-made) track available, at the moment?

Thank you for the input.
Phil.P

[gilfachphil]

Hi Phil,

bit late to this discussion but the picture below shows part of my portable layout featuring a run round loop and head shunt siding. The points are Peco small radius sm32 and the track the peco flexitrack. It's not easy to flex but will take a curve if firmly fixed down. I think the radius needed from the nearer point, which is the only curved bit, matches a set trackcurve.

The whole thing is 7ft long.

Phil

[Phil.P]

Thank you Phil..

I was beginning to get a little disheartened by very large radius curves. - I have a square area (about 10 foot) which it would be nice to get a return loop in, but still have decent access for foot-traffic..

It looks like I will be able to follow the hedge, and get a return loop in the area I have.

Time to get the tape measure and graph paper out.

[Andrew]

I struggled with dodgy flexi-track curves for years before investing in a rail bender. It's a lot of work, particularly if the track's old and the sleepers are stubbornly sticking to the rail (Lots of WD-40's the answer!), but worth it, I think. The very ends of the rail can still be a problem (they can want to stay straight), which I've mitigated by staggering the joins on my sharper (3'6"-ish radius) curves - they did the same thing in full size when they were re-building the Welsh Highland.

Despite the above, if I was going for a tight radius to fit a small space, and if the budget I had available at the time stretched to it, I think I'd invest in Peco 2nd radius set track, with matching points - I reckon you could be pretty confident of a smooth ride that way.

By the way, love that station scene GIlfach Phil, I'd like to see more, looks like a lovely railway!

Andrew.

[SimonWood]

Re-mangled rail-joiners, do not hold so well, either.

Useful tip I was given was to use G45 rail joiners. Especially good on curves (I still use SM32 joiners on stress-free straight sections...)